Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy CityJones, George
History
Excursions to Cairo, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Balbec From the United States Ship Delaware, During Her Recent Cruise: With an Attempt to Discriminate Between Truth and Error in Regard to the Sacred Places of the Holy City
Jones, George
Middle East -- Description and travel
The Pasha was seated at one angle, and on our entering, put the
Commodore at his left hand, which in these countries is the seat of
honor; he received us sitting, but stood up when the Commodore rose to
leave the room, which, I believe, is an unusual compliment. After the
compliments usual on such occasions, coffee and sherbet were brought
in by the attendants, but pipes were omitted. I was informed that,
on the occasion of the recent introduction of an English traveller,
some difficulty had arisen on this score; if I recollect right, the
gentleman had declined the pipe, which was considered by the Pasha
as an insult. At all events, since that time pipes have always been
dispensed with at his interviews with foreigners.
The Commodore thanked him for the numerous instances of hospitality and
kindness which we had experienced, and spoke in terms of admiration
of his various improvements, to all which he made suitable answers;
and expressing himself also in terms of strong friendship for our
country, and hinting a desire for more intimate relations. He showed
considerable knowledge of our institutions, and put many pertinent
questions with regard to the productions of the country, our modes
of cultivation, &c.; and expressed great surprise when the Commodore
stated the size to which the coffee tree grows in the West Indies, it
being in Egypt and Arabia only a shrub, which must be renewed every
five or six years.
Mohammed Ali is about 60 or 65 years of age, about five feet eight
inches in height, and heavy; though he can scarcely be called
corpulent. His forehead is large and rough; the eyes gray and small,
with a deep wrinkle running upward from the outer angle; they are very
keen and restless; and I believe there was not one of our large party
upon whom they were not repeatedly fixed during this interview. He
converses with earnestness, and laughs frequently, but his laugh is
discordant and unnatural. The nose is aquiline, the mouth depressed at
the corners, and garnished with a superb silvery beard. The expression
of his face when he smiles is rather pleasant; but at other times a
person in his presence feels as he would do near an open barrel of
gunpowder, with a shower of red-hot cinders falling around him.
* * * * *
SYRIA.
* * * * *
SYRIA.
CHAPTER XI.
First view of the coast of Judea. Anxieties as we approached. State
of the Country. Recent Rebellion. Investment of Jerusalem. Character
of the Natives. Earthquakes. Taking of the City. English and American
Missionaries. Death of Mrs. Thompson. Defeat of Ibrahim Pasha.
Re-capture of the City. Conscription. Strange conduct of our Consul
at Jaffa. He is dismissed from Office. Jaffa. Large clusters of
Grapes. Eastern Story-tellers. Gardens and Watermelons of Jaffa. The
Cactus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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