Jaffa, to which we made several visits while preparing for the journey, proved, on closer inspection, to be a filthy and wretched-looking, place. The streets were of course narrow, that is common in all eastern towns; in addition, however, those of Jaffa go straight up a hill so steep as to require steps cut in the rock, and as these steps are worn, and often slippery and covered with filth, a walk through the town is one of some labor, and we did not often attempt it. Indeed there is little to tempt a person to do so, as the city is not large, and has not a single building of any importance. I ought to mention one street as an exception to the general character. It starts at the water-gate, and stretching along by the city wall, on the sea shore, is sufficiently level; on the land side of this are ranges of small warehouses, which were nearly empty at the time of our visit, and in no wise abstracted from the dull monotony of the place. By and by, this street turns into the city, and beginning to ascend a low eminence, becomes the principal bazaar, or, I believe I should say, _the_ bazaar, of the place. The shops which line it on either side were poorly furnished, and I found nothing to interest me in the whole bazaar, except some bunches of grapes. But these _did_ interest me. One of them I am certain was two feet in length, not, however, with grapes thickly clustering along, but scattered at intervals; it was thus not so remarkable for the quantity of fruit, but for its length; and I can easily imagine that where such clusters are common, some of similar length, and fully charged with fruit, may easily be found. On my speaking of this cluster to some of the officers, they told me that they had seen others in the market still larger.