Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)Werne, Ferdinand
History
Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Werne, Ferdinand
Nile River
One can scarcely form an idea of the continual and extraordinary
windings of the river. Half an hour ago we saw, on the right,
the Muscovite’s vessel, and on the left the other vessels a-head
_on a line_ with us, separated, however, by the high grass, from
which their masts and sails joyfully peeped forth. I could scarcely
persuade myself that we had proceeded from the one place, and shall
steer to the other. There is something cheerful and tranquilizing
in this life-like picture of ships seeking and finding each other
again in the immeasurable grass-sea, which gives us a feeling of
security. It must be a sight to the people of this region that they
cannot comprehend, owing to the distance.
Those sixteen dhellèb-palms have at last approached to within
gun-shot. I had counted them four times, and every time found another,
so exactly does one trunk cover the other. I do not call them
_handsome_ trees, because they stand there in the green wilderness;
no, I find them really beautiful, for there is a peculiar charm in
them. They rise like double gigantic flowers upon slender stalks,
gently protruding in the middle, and not like those defoliated
date-palms, which stand meagerly, like large cabbage-stalks. It
is impossible that the latter should delight my poor heart, full
of the remembrance of shady trees,—the oaks and beech-trees of
Germany; the planes near Parnassus; the cypress on the Bosphorus,
and the chestnuts on the Asiatic Olympus. About three o’clock we
landed on the left shore, and found it dry, to our astonishment, but
still green, and covered with high grasses. Near the palms were four
ant-hills, on the tops of which we found the wet blue clay worked
up. Some miserable tokuls also stood around, but they were deserted
by the inhabitants. To my sorrow, I see again a sürtuk destroyed,
for the sake of some splinters of wood, merely to keep up a fire the
whole night for amusement, on board the sandal,—not to drive away
the gnats, for they let the fire burn in a clear flame. Wherever they
have the opportunity of displaying their petulance, our blacks also
are ever ready. They are not ever ashamed to have always in their
mouths the word “Abit,” although they themselves are slaves,
and will be so while they live, though clad in the soldier’s smock
frock, for the Turkish soldiery have not yet qualified themselves
for an honourable condition.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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