Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)Werne, Ferdinand
History
Expedition to discover the sources of the White Nile, in the years 1840, 1841, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Werne, Ferdinand
Nile River
We sail S.S.E. into an arm of the Nile, which continues to become
narrower, and where we at last stick fast on the grass, for it
contracted itself to the length of our bark. Happily the river here
is not so deep but that we could make use of our long poles, whilst
the wind helped us, in some measure, to break through this short
passage. We did this in order to gain a wider arm in W.S.W. and S.W.,
wherein the principal stream seems to flow, the water, shortly before,
being entirely stagnant. The sailors, who had jumped into the water
on this little error in our course, came again on board with leeches
sticking to their bodies, the first and only ones I have seen in
the land of Sudàn.
A calm set in; but towing on ground of such a nature was not to be
thought of. Besides, we had no wood, so we landed in the country
of the Shilluks, near large sunt-trees; amongst them one was
distinguished by a circumference of fifteen feet. Some houses lay
there upon a low island, still surrounded with water, from which the
people had fled; we found in one of them a dog, which I protected
from the wanton cruelty of the crew, by laying claim to him as my
property. This faithful beast was of the shepherd-dog breed, similar
to those seen in Turkey. The tokuls have the already-mentioned arched
roofs of meadow-grass (called Halfa), and their walls are of reeds
and poles, as thick as a man’s arm, and plastered inside and out
with a clay-like under layer of the Nile slime. It appears that
they try to harden this circular wall before placing on the roof,
by a large fire lighted in the interior, as is the custom also in
the mountains near Fàzogl, for the walls displayed an extraordinary
solidity, considering they were of burnt clay. The door is an oval
hole, through which we stooped to enter, and it is also of good
service when poking such a fire. We found here several household
utensils, none of which I ventured to lay claim to, although they
could have no other value for the people than that of momentary
use. My three servants no sooner remarked that I was pleased with
these things, than, laughing at my scrupulous conscience towards
these “Abit,” they stole some of the utensils behind my back,
whilst we were sitting and eating together, and carried them to the
ships. They said afterwards that the Shilluks must have left these
things lying in their houses for us to take them. On this excuse,
I remembered what the Bedouins (Beduàn, _sing._ Bedaùi) did,
when Mohammed Ali forbade them to take tribute from the pilgrims
travelling to Jerusalem and Mecca; they forced the pilgrims to drop
upon the ground as much money as they thought sufficient, and then,
pretending to find it after the caravan had passed, took possession
of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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