_7th April._—Set off at an early hour, with a contrary, though not a strong, north-east wind, and continued in a north-easterly direction till some hours after sunrise. I hear the joyful cry of “Baghàras!” and perceive immediately from the window a dozen of these mounted herdsmen, who spring forward to the margin of the shore on the left side of the river, greet, and make signs to us. To see horses for the first time after several months gave me a delightful sensation. It is, perhaps, certain, that cultivation has not ascended the river from hence, for otherwise the useful horse and the camel, which subsequently became indigenous on the Nile, would not have been forgotten, being two of the most necessary animals on earth. Flags and streamers, with the insignia of the Prophet, were hoisted to welcome the bold horsemen as Mahommedan brothers, and to soften their hearts. Then begins a barter for butter, milk, and sheep, but these Anti-Christs are hard to deal with, for they make us pay dearly for everything; yet they also take glass beads as well as gold. It is delightful to view these well-known heads, with their hair twisted back in a tuft. The men in blue shirts carry three or four lances, holding the longer and stronger one in their hand. The pretty girls wear a ferda round their hips, and the swelling bosom is uncovered. A ring decorates their nostrils, as in other regions, but, on the other hand, they wear long hair, falling in tresses on their shoulders—an ornament which we have never beheld in the upper countries. These horsemen, employed as an _avant garde_ against the Shilluks, whom they do not fear in the least, are, according to Mariàn, a bold stem of the Baghàras from Kordofal (the last syllable fluctuates between fal and fan) who call themselves Abanies. Their Sheikh, who is said to be known to me, is called “Wood el Mamùd.” I cannot, however, recall his name to my recollection, although he has been with us in Khartùm. The first island-park appeared this morning on the left, its convolvuli in full verdant splendour, and considerably elevated above the water; another one followed, but the variegated flowers were absent, and the lower part of the foliage of the hanging creepers was dry, having been covered longer by the water.