Ah, potent chiefs, Bordeaux and Burgundy. If we must answer make, This sober counsel take: Messeigneurs, sing your worth less haughtily, For ’tis Champagne, the sparkling soul of mirth, That bubbling o’er with laughing gas, Flashes gay sunbeams in the glass, And like our flag goes proudly round the earth. Aye, ’tis the true, the typic wine of France; Aye, ’tis our heart that sparkles in our eyes, And higher beats for every dire mischance; It was the wit that made our fathers wise, That made their valour gallant, gay, When plumes were stirr’d by winds of waving swords, And chivalry’s defiance spoke the words: “À vous, Messieurs les Anglais, les premiers!” Let the dull beer-apostle till he’s hoarse Vent his small spleen and spite, Fate fill his sleepless night With nightmares of invincible remorse! We sing Champagne, the sparkling soul of mirth, That bubbling o’er with laughing gas, Flashes gay sunbeams in the glass, And like our flag goes proudly round the earth. [Illustration] [Illustration: PEASANT WOMEN OF THE ENVIRONS OF SAUMUR.] XIII.--SPARKLING SAUMUR AND SPARKLING SAUTERNES. The Sparkling Wines of the Loire often palmed off as Champagnes-- The Finer qualities Improve with Age-- Anjou the Cradle of the Plantagenet Kings-- Saumur and its Dominating Feudal Château and Antique Hôtel de Ville-- Its Sinister Rue des Payens and Steep Tortuous Grande Rue-- The Vineyards of the Coteau of Saumur-- Abandoned Stone Quarries converted into Dwellings-- The Vintage in Progress-- Old-fashioned Pressoirs-- The Making of the Wine-- The Vouvray Vineyards-- Balzac’s Picture of La Vallée Coquette-- The Village of Vouvray and the Château of Moncontour-- Vernou with its Reminiscences of Sully and Pépin-le-Bref-- The Vineyards around Saumur-- Remarkable Ancient Dolmens-- Ackerman-Laurance’s Establishment at Saint-Florent-- Their Extensive Cellars, Ancient and Modern-- Treatment of the Newly-Vintaged Wine-- The Cuvée-- Proportions of Wine from Black and White Grapes-- The Bottling and Disgorging of the Wine and Finishing Operations-- The Château of Varrains and the Establishment of M. Louis Duvau aîné-- His Cellars a succession of Gloomy Galleries-- The Disgorging of the Wine accomplished in a Melodramatic-looking Cave-- M. Duvau’s Vineyard-- His Sparkling Saumur of Various Ages-- Marked Superiority of the more Matured Samples-- M. Alfred Rousteaux’s Establishments at Saint-Florent and Saint-Cyr-- His convenient Celliers and extensive Cellars-- Mingling of Wine from the Champagne with the finer Sparkling Saumur-- His Vineyard at La Perrière-- M. E. Normandin’s Sparkling Sauternes Manufactory at Châteauneuf-- Angoulême and its Ancient Fortifications-- Vin de Colombar-- M. Normandin’s Sparkling Sauternes Cuvée-- His Cellars near Châteauneuf-- High recognition