Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
At the vintage, which commences towards the end of October and lasts
until the middle of the following month, all the rotten or unripe grapes
are carefully set aside and the sound ones only submitted to the action
of a screw-press. After the must has flowed for about half-an-hour the
grapes are newly collected under the press and the screw again applied.
The produce of this double operation is poured into a vat termed a
_sapine_, where it remains until bubbles are seen escaping through the
_chapeau_ that forms on the surface of the liquid. The must is then
drawn off--sometimes after being fined--into casks, which the majority
of wine-growers previously impregnate with the fumes of sulphur. When in
cask the wine is treated in one of two ways; either the casks are kept
constantly filled to the bunghole, causing the foam which rises to the
surface during the fermentation to flow over, and thereby leave the wine
comparatively clear, or else the casks are not completely filled, in
which case the wine requires to be racked several times before it is in
a condition for fining. This latter operation is effected about the
commencement of February, and a second fining follows if the first one
fails to render the wine perfectly clear. At the tirage, which
invariably takes place in April, the Jura wines rarely require any
addition of sugar to insure an ample effervescence. After bottling they
are treated in exactly the same manner as the vintages of the Marne are
treated by the great champagne manufacturers. In addition to white
sparkling wine a pink variety, with natural effervescent properties, is
made by mixing with the savagnin and melon grapes a certain proportion
of the poulsard species, from which the best red wines of the Jura are
produced.
One of the principal sparkling wine establishments at Lons-le-Saulnier
is that of M. Auguste Devaux, founded in the year 1860. He manufactures
both sweet and dry wines, which are sold largely in France and elsewhere
on the Continent, and have lately been introduced into England. Their
alcoholic strength is equivalent to from 25° to 26° of proof spirit,
being largely above the dry sparkling wines of the Champagne, which the
Jura manufacturers regard as a positive advantage rather than an obvious
drawback. M. Devaux’s principal brand is the Fleur de l’Etoile, of
which, he has white, pink, and amber-coloured varieties, quoted by him
at merely three francs the bottle for the grand years.
Besides being too spirituous, the sparkling wines of the Jura are
deficient in refinement and delicacy. The commoner kinds, indeed,
frequently have a pronounced unpleasant flavour, due to the nature of
the soil, to careless vinification, or to the inferior quality of
liqueur with which the wines have been dosed. Out of some fifty samples
of all ages and varieties which in my capacity of juror I tasted at the
Paris Exhibition I cannot call to mind one that a real connoisseur of
sparkling wines would care to admit to his table.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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