Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
At Saint-Péray we visited the cellars of M. de Saint-Prix, one of the
principal wine-growers of the district. The samples of effervescing wine
which he produced for us to taste were of a pale golden colour, of a
slightly nutty flavour, and with a decided suggestion of the spirituous
essence known to be concentrated in the wine, one glass of which will go
quite as far towards elevating a person as three glasses of champagne.
Keeping the wine for a few years is said materially to improve its
quality, to the sacrifice, however, of its effervescent properties.
M. de Saint-Prix informed us that he manufactured every year a certain
quantity of sparkling Côte-Rotie, Château-Grillé, and Hermitage. The
principal markets for the Saint-Péray sparkling wines--the production of
which falls considerably short of a million bottles per annum--are
England, Germany, Russia, Holland, and Belgium.
[Illustration]
The other side of the Rhône is fruitful in minor sparkling wines, chief
amongst which is the so-called Clairette de Die, made at the town of
that name, a place of some splendour, as existing antiquities show, in
the days of the Roman dominion in Gaul. Later on, Die was the scene of
constant struggles for supremacy between its counts and bishops, one of
the latter having been massacred by the populace in front of the
cathedral doorway--ever since known by the sinister appellation of the
Porte Rouge--and Catholics and Huguenots alike devastated the town in
the troublesome times of the Reform. Clairette de Die is made
principally from the blanquette or malvoisie variety of grape, which,
after the stalks have been removed, is both trodden with the feet and
pressed. The must is run off immediately into casks, and four-and-twenty
hours later it is racked into other casks, a similar operation being
performed every two or three days for the period of a couple of months,
when the fermentation having subsided the wine is fined and usually
bottled in the following March. Newly-made Clairette de Die is a sweet
sparkling wine, but it loses its natural effervescence after a couple of
years, unless it has been treated in the same manner as champagne, which
is rarely the case. The wine enjoys a reputation altogether beyond its
merits.
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