Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Rhine wine--that is, they are crushed in the vineyards by means of
grape-mills, and afterwards pressed in the usual way. The must for
sparkling wines, whether from black or white grapes, is run at once into
casks to ferment. If possible it is conveyed in large casks known as
stucks--immediately after the pressing, and before fermentation
begins--to the manufacturer’s cellars in town; but if this cannot be
accomplished it remains in the cellars of the district until the first
fermentation is over, which is in December or January. It is then racked
off its lees, and the produce of black and white grapes is blended
together, only a small proportion of the former entering into the
composition of true sparkling hock, which should retain in a marked
degree the subtile and fragrant perfume of the riesling grape.
The process pursued in the manufacture of sparkling hocks is the same as
that followed with regard to champagnes. The quantity of grape sugar
generated in these Northern German latitudes being far from large, both
hocks and moselles invariably need a small addition of saccharine,
previous to their being put into bottle, to insure the requisite
effervescence, whereas in the Champagne the practice of adding sugar
with this object is not the uniform rule. After the wine is bottled it
remains in a cool cellar for eighteen months or a couple of years, being
constantly shaken during this period, in the same way as champagne, in
order to force the sediment to deposit itself near to the cork. By this
time the added as well as the natural sugar contained in the wine has
become converted into alcohol and carbonic acid; and after the sediment
has been expelled from the bottle the operation of dosing, or
flavouring, the wine takes place.
Sparkling hocks intended both for the German and Russian markets are
frequently almost cloying in their sweetness, as much as one-fifth of
syrup being often added to four-fifths of wine. The sparkling moselles,
too, for Russia, and not unfrequently for England also, are largely
dosed with the preparation of elder-flowers, which imparts to them their
well-known muscatel flavour and perfume. The manufacturers say they are
doing their best to abandon this absurd practice of artificially
perfuming sparkling moselles; but many of their customers, and
especially those in the English provinces, stipulate for the scented
varieties, possibly from an erroneous belief in their superiority.
Effervescing Rhine wines of the highest class have a marked and refined
flavour, together with a very decided natural bouquet. Moreover, they
retain their effervescent properties for a considerable time after being
uncorked, and appear to the taste as light, if not precisely as
delicate, as the finer champagnes, although in reality such is not the
case; for all sparkling hocks possess greater body than even the
heaviest champagnes, and cannot, therefore, be drunk with equal freedom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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