Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Messrs. Deinhard draw their supplies of wine from white grapes, for
conversion into sparkling wines, from the Rhine, the Main, the Moselle,
and the Palatinate, giving preference to the produce of the riesling
grape, as to this the wine is indebted for its natural bouquet. The
proportion of wine from black grapes, mingled with the other wines, is
vintaged by themselves in the Ahr valley and at Ingelheim on the Rhine.
The Ahr, in summer a rippling streamlet and in winter a rushing torrent,
falls into the Rhine about twenty miles below Coblenz. The soil of the
neighbouring hills seems peculiarly adapted for the growth of black
grapes, one of the best of German red wines being produced in the
vineyards adjacent to the village of Walporzheim. In order that the wine
may be as pale as possible, the black grapes are pressed as soon after
gathering as they can be, and only the juice resulting from the first
pressure is reserved, the subsequently extracted must being sold to the
small growers of the neighbourhood. The newly-made wine is brought in
casks to Coblenz, and rests for eight weeks while completing its
fermentation. It is then racked into stucks and double stucks, and is
blended in casks of the latter capacity during the early part of the
following year, great care being taken to preserve the bouquet of the
white grapes, with which view, contrary to the practice followed in the
Champagne, only a moderate proportion of wine from black grapes enters
into the blend.
[Illustration:
VINEYARDS IN THE AHR VALLEY.]
Next comes the fining, and four weeks afterwards the wine is newly
racked. The bottling takes place during May or June, when any deficiency
of natural saccharine in the wine is supplied by the addition of pure
sugar-candy. At Messrs. Deinhard’s the wine is bottled at a temperature
of 72° Fahr., and the bottles remain resting on large stone tables until
the fermentation is completed, and the saccharine is converted into
alcohol and carbonic acid gas. This result is commonly obtained in
ordinary hot weather in eight days’ time, most of the breakage taking
place during this interval. If on being tested with a manometer the wine
should indicate too high a pressure, it is at once removed to a cool
cellar, consequently the average total breakage rarely exceeds 2¼ per
cent. The wine is now left quiet for at least a year, and if possible
for two years, after which the bottles are placed on stands in the
customary inverted position, and shaken daily for a period of six weeks,
in order to dislodge the sediment and force it against the cork. German
workmen are far less expert at this operation than their fellows in the
Champagne, as few of the former can manage more than their
four-and-twenty thousand bottles per diem. The disgorgement and
liqueuring of the wine is accomplished at Messrs. Deinhard’s and other
German establishments in precisely the same fashion as is followed in
the Champagne.
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