Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
The faculty are agreed that fine dry champagnes are among the safest
wines that can be partaken of. Any intoxicating effects are rapid but
exceedingly transient, and arise from the alcohol suspended in the
carbonic acid being applied rapidly and extensively to the surface of
the stomach. “Champagne,” said Curran, “simply gives a runaway rap at a
man’s head.” Dr. Druitt, equally distinguished by his studies upon wine
and his standing as a physician, pronounces good champagne to be “a true
stimulant to body and mind alike, rapid, volatile, transitory, and
harmless. Amongst the maladies which are benefited by it,” remarks he,
“is the true neuralgia, intermitting fits of excruciating pain running
along certain nerves, without inflammation of the affected part, often a
consequence of malaria, or of some other low and exhausting causes. To
enumerate the cases in which champagne is of service would be to give a
whole nosology. Who does not know the misery, the helplessness of that
abominable ailment, influenza, whether a severe cold or the genuine
epidemic? Let the faculty dispute about the best remedy if they please;
but a sensible man with a bottle of champagne will beat them all.
Moreover, whenever there is pain, with exhaustion and lowness, then
Dr. Champagne should be had up. There is something excitant in the wine;
doubly so in the sparkling wine, which the moment it touches the lips
sends an electric telegram of comfort to every remote nerve. Nothing
comforts and rests the stomach better, or is a greater antidote to
nausea.”
Champagne of fine quality should never be mixed with ice or iced water;
neither should it be iced to the extent champagnes ordinarily are, for,
in the first place, the natural lightness of the wine is such as not to
admit of its being diluted without utterly spoiling it, and in the next,
excessive cold destroys alike the fragrant bouquet of the wine and its
delicate vinous flavour. Really good champagne should not be iced below
a temperature of 50° Fahr., whereas exceedingly sweet wines will bear
icing down almost to freezing point, and be rendered more palatable by
the process. The above remarks apply to all kinds of sparkling wine.
In the Champagne what may be termed a really grand vintage commonly
occurs only once, and never more than twice, in ten years. During the
same period, however, there will generally be one or two other tolerably
good vintages. In grand years the crop, besides being of superior
quality, is usually abundant, and as a consequence the price of the raw
wine is scarcely higher than usual. Apparently from this circumstance
the sparkling wine of grand vintages does not command an enhanced value,
as is the case with other fine wines. It is only when speculators
recklessly outbid each other for the grapes or the _vin brut_, or when
stocks are low and the _vin brut_ is really scarce, that the price of
champagne appears to rise.
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