Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
We certainly do not approve of Mr. Charles Dickens’s dictum that
champagne’s proper place is not at the dinner-table, but solely at a
ball. “A cavalier,” he said, “may appropriately offer at propitious
intervals a glass now and then to his danceress. There it takes its
fitting rank and position amongst feathers, gauzes, lace, embroidery,
ribbons, white satin, shoes, and eau-de-Cologne, for champagne is simply
one of the elegant extras of life.” This is all very well, still the
advantageous effect of sparkling wine at an ordinary British
dinner-party, composed as it frequently is of people pitchforked
together in accordance with the exigencies of the hostess’s
visiting-list, cannot be gainsayed. After the preliminary glowering at
each other, _more Britannico_, in the drawing-room, everybody regards it
as a relief to be summoned to the repast, which, however, commences as
chillily as the soup and as stolidly as the salmon. The soul of the
hostess is heavy with the anxiety of prospective dishes, the brow of the
host is clouded with the reflection that our rulers are bent upon
dragging us into war. Placed between a young lady just out and a dowager
of grimly Gorgonesque aspect, you hesitate how to open a conversation.
Your first attempts, like those of the Russian batteries on the Danube,
are singularly ineffectual, only eliciting a dropping fire of
monosyllables. You envy the placidly languid young gentleman opposite,
limp as his fast-fading camellia, and seated next to Belle Breloques,
who is certain, in racing parlance, to make the running for him. But
even that damsel seems preoccupied with her fan, and, despite her
_aplomb_, hesitates to break the icy silence. The two City friends of
the host are lost in mute speculation as to the future price of indigo
or Ionian Bank shares, while their wives seem to be mentally summarising
the exact cost of each other’s toilettes. Their daughters, or somebody
else’s daughters, are desperately jerking out monosyllabic responses to
feeble remarks concerning the weather, lawn tennis, operatic
_débutantes_, the gravel in the Row, the ill-health of the Princess, and
kindred topics from a couple of F.O. men. Little Snapshot, the wit, on
the other side of the Gorgon, has tried to lead up to a story, but has
found himself, as it were, frozen in the bud. When lo! the butler softly
sibillates in your ear the magic word “champagne,” and as it flows,
creaming and frothing, into your glass, a change comes over the spirit
of your vision.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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