The Establishment of Deutz and Geldermann-- Drawing off the Cuvée-- Mode of Excavating Cellars in the Champagne-- The Firm’s New Cellars, Vineyards, and Vendangeoir-- The old Château of Ay and its Terraced Garden-- The Gambling Propensities of Balthazar Constance Dangé-Dorçay, a former Owner of the Château-- The Picturesque Situation and Aspect of Messrs. Ayala’s Establishment-- A Promenade through their Cellars-- M. Duminy’s Cellars and Wines-- His new Model Construction-- The House Founded in 1814-- Messrs. Bollinger’s Establishment-- Their Vineyard of La Grange-- The Tirage in Progress-- The Fine Cellars of the Firm-- Messrs. Pfungst’s frères and Co.’s Cellars-- Their Dry Champagnes of 1868, ’70, ’72, and ’74-- The Old Church of Ay and its Decorations of Grapes and Vineleaves-- The Vendangeoir of Henri Quatre-- The Montebello Establishment at Mareuil-- The Château formerly the Property of the Dukes of Orleans-- A Titled Champagne Firm-- The Brilliant Career of Marshal Lannes-- A Promenade through the Montebello Establishment-- The Press House, the Cuvée Vat, the Packing-Room, the Offices, and the Cellars-- Portraits and Relics at the Château-- The Establishment of Bruch-Foucher and Co.-- The handsome Carved Gigantic Cuvée Tun-- The Cellars and their Lofty Shafts-- The Wines of the Firm. The historic _bourgade_ of Ay is within a short walk of the station on the line of railway connecting Epernay with Reims. The road lies across the light bridge spanning the Marne canal, the tall trees fringing which hide for a time the clustering houses; still we catch sight of the tapering steeple of the antique church rising sharply against the green vine-covered slopes and the fleecy-clouded summer sky. We soon reach the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, and continuing onward in the direction of the steep hills which shelter the town on the north, come to a massive-looking corner house in front of the broad _porte-cochère_ of which some railway carts laden with cases of champagne are standing. Passing through the gateway we find ourselves in an open court, with a dwelling-house to the right and a range of buildings in front where the offices of Messrs. Deutz and Geldermann are installed. This is the central establishment of the firm, whose Extra Dry “Gold Lack” and “Cabinet” champagnes have long been favourably known in England. Here are spacious celliers for disgorging and finishing off the wine, a large packing-hall, and rooms where bales of corks and other accessories of the trade are stored, the operations of making the _cuvées_ and bottling being accomplished in an establishment some little distance off. [Illustration: DRAWING OFF THE CUVÉE AT DEUTZ & GELDERMANN’S, AY. (p. 118)] [Illustration: EXCAVATING DEUTZ & GELDERMANN’S NEW CELLARS, AY. (p. 119)]