England -- Description and travel; London (England) -- Description and travel; Thames River (England)
The question arises, Why should these two ranges of hills, the
Marlborough Downs and the Chiltern Hills, meet just at this point? Is
it simply an accident of geography that their two ends stand exactly
face to face on opposite sides of the Thames?
Now the geologists tell us that it is no coincidence. They have studied
the strata—that is, the different layers of the materials forming the
hills—and they find that the strata of the range on the Berkshire side
compare exactly with the strata of the other; so that at some remote
period the two must have been joined to form one unbroken range. How
then did the gap come? Was it due to a cracking of the hill—a double
crack with the earth slipping down in between, as has sometimes
happened in the past? Here again the geologists tells us, No. Moreover
they tell us that undoubtedly the River has _cut its way_ right through
the chalk hills.
“But how can that be possible?” someone says. “Here we have the Thames
down in a low-lying plain on the north-west side of the hills, and
down in the valley on the south-east side. How could a river flowing
across a plain get up to the heights to commence the wearing away at
the tops?” Here again the geologists must come to our aid. They tell us
that back in that dim past, so interesting to picture yet so difficult
to grasp, when the ancient, mighty River flowed (see Book I., Intro.),
the chalk-lands extended from the Chilterns westwards, that there was
no valley where now Oxford, Abingdon, and Lechlade lie, but that the
River flowed across the top of a tableland of chalk from its sources
in the higher grounds of the west to the brink at or near the eastern
slope of the Chilterns; and that from this lofty position the River
was able to wear its way down, and so make a =V=-shaped cutting in
the end of the tableland. Afterwards there came an alteration in the
surface. Some tremendous internal movement caused the land gradually
to fold up, as it were; so that the tableland sagged down in the
middle, leaving the Marlborough-Chiltern hills on the one side and
the Cotswold-Edgehill range on the other, with the Oxford valley in
between. But by this time the =V=-shaped gap had been cut sufficiently
low to allow the River to flow through the hills, and to go on cutting
its way still lower and lower.
CHAPTER FOUR
_Reading_
Reading is without doubt the most disappointing town in the whole of
the Thames Valley. It has had such a full share of history, far more
than other equally famous towns; has been favoured by the reigning
monarch of the land through many centuries; has taken sides in internal
strife and felt the tide of war surging round its gates; it has counted
for so much in the life of England that one feels almost a sense of
loss in finding it just a commonplace manufacturing town, with not a
semblance of any of its former glory.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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