The yearly production of silk stuffs in France attained no less
than 7,558,000 kilogrammes in 1881;[206] and most of the 5,000,000
to 6,000,000 kilogrammes of raw silk which were manufactured in
the Lyons region were manufactured by hand.[207] Twenty years
before--that is, about 1865--there were only from 6,000 to 8,000
power-looms, and when we take into account both the prosperous
period of the Lyons silk industry about 1876, and the crisis which
it underwent in 1880-1886, we cannot but wonder about the slowness
of the transformation of the industry. Such is also the opinion of
the President of the Lyons Chamber of Commerce, who wrote me that the
domain of the power-loom is increased every year, “by including new
kinds of stuffs, which formerly were reputed as unfeasible in the
power-looms; but,” he added, “the transformation of small workshops
into factories still goes on so slowly that the total number of
power-looms reaches only from 20,000 to 25,000 out of an aggregate
of from 100,000 to 110,000.” (Since that time it certainly must have
considerably increased.)
The leading features of the Lyons silk industry are the following:--
The preparatory work--winding off, warping and so on--is mostly made
in small workshops, chiefly at Lyons, with only a few workshops of
the kind in the villages. Dyeing and finishing are also made--of
course, in great factories--and it is especially in dyeing, which
occupies 4,000 to 5,000 hands, that the Lyons manufacturers have
attained their highest repute. Not only silks are dyed there, but
also cottons and wools, and not only for France, but also to some
extent for London, Manchester, Vienna, and even Moscow. It is also
in this branch that the best machines have to be mentioned.[208]
As to the weaving, it is made, as we just saw, on from 20,000 to
25,000 power-looms and from 75,000 to 90,000 hand-looms, which partly
are at Lyons (from 15,000 to 18,000 hand-looms in 1885) and chiefly
in the villages. The workshops, where one might formerly find several
_compagnons_ employed by one master, have a tendency to disappear,
the workshops mostly having now but from two to three hand-looms, on
which the father, the mother, and the children are working together.
In each house, in each storey of the Croix Rousse, you find until now
such small workshops. The _fabricant_ gives the general indications
as to the kind of stuff he desires to be woven, and his draughtsmen
design the pattern, but it is the workman himself who must find
the way to weave in threads of all colours the patterns sketched
on paper. He thus continually creates something new; and many
improvements and discoveries have been made by workers whose very
names remain unknown.[209]
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