“Many a woman who has attended my classes has said with tear-stained face, ‘As for believing, I believe. I am clinging to Christ for salvation. I have no desire for any trust but in him, but I am so ignorant. I know so little about my Bible. I know not how to read its thoughts with my dark mind. I know so little about the great Jesus doctrine. How can God be pleased to call me his child, when I know not how to glorify him?’ They say the men stand out far on the other side of the curtain[4] and teach great and wonderful things which they cannot comprehend, but a woman can sit in their midst and listen to all of their unlearned questions, and they are not ashamed to let a patient woman see how little they know! It is not easy to hear these heart-felt burdens and be helpless to meet their need in any adequate manner.” [4] Churches are divided by a curtain down the center, with men on one side and women on the other. The preacher can see both sides. CHAPTER XV Another Itineration--Christians in Eul Yul--A Ride in an Ox-Cart--Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen--Ox-Carts and Mountain Roads--The Island of White Wing--A Midnight Meeting--Thanksgiving Day in Sorai--The Circular Orders--New Testament Finished--All in the Day’s Work--The Korean Noble--Meetings of the Nobility. We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, by one of the toy Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, a half-Japanese, half-Korean port, at night. We were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom, a new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the bracing effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a few weeks; and one who had previously arranged with me to carry on a women’s training class in Eul Yul that fall. We were obliged to spend the night in Chinampo, but arriving late, we did not know where to find an inn, till we met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England mission, who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, after telling them our nationality, our ages, our condition, past lives and future intentions, and having been forced in spite of all protests to remove our shoes, they condescended to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. We must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which had served no one knew whom before us; nor might we have water in our rooms, but must perform all our ablutions in the public hall on the lower floor. Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts farewell, and crossed the river in a wretched old junk, which looked as if it were on the brink of dissolution. Fortunately, the weather was fine and mild, and the river calm, else I am sure we should all have been dipped, for even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We were all day on the river, only able to land after dark, thanks partly to the nature of our vessel and partly to the tides, for which we were forced to wait before landing.