Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots; Or, Life in KoreaUnderwood, Lillias H. (Lillias Horton)
Religion
Fifteen Years Among the Top-Knots; Or, Life in Korea
Underwood, Lillias H. (Lillias Horton)
Korea -- Description and travel; Missions -- Korea
We were compelled to go on some miles farther to obtain a boat for our
short trip down the Yalu. In rainy weather the rapids between this
point and Weju are rather dangerous, but at this time it was only a
swift current, which made the trip the pleasanter. We found a Korean
junk, which served our purpose as well as any that were to be had,
which was flat-bottomed, and thirty feet long by three wide. This would
carry our attendants, our packs, two or three boatmen and ourselves.
Some mats were rigged on bamboo poles above us for an awning, and
others stretched across the middle of the boat for a partition, which
left one half for the use of the natives, while we reserved the other
for ourselves. Here we spent three days and nights; during the latter,
however, we always anchored near the shore. Provisions in plenty were
obtained from the villages we passed, when a great many people came out
to kugung; but here we had the advantage, and while quite able to talk
to them from the boat, were not forced to permit more than we liked to
examine us and our belongings.
One night we were wakened with the cry of “Pull, pull!” “Fire, fire!”
and found the boat was on fire. Some one had fallen asleep while
smoking and dropped hot ashes among combustibles; but we were close to
the shore, there was plenty of water and people to use it. The blaze
was soon out, and nothing thrilling came to pass. Thus was it ever with
our adventures. While danger in one form or another made itself known,
as if to prove beyond a doubt our Father’s care, we were kept as safe
and unharmed as a child in its mother’s arms; and were we not with the
everlasting arms underneath us?
As we drifted down the Amno those lovely spring days, with China
lying on one side of us and Korea on the other, the contrast was
wonderfully marked, almost as much, indeed, as if the two nations had
been separated by oceans rather than a river. This difference too was
almost as marked in the physical features of the country as in national
customs. On the Korean shore the trees were mostly of pine; on the
China side, of oaks and other deciduous varieties. The Korean peasants’
huts were of mud, straw thatched; the Chinese houses of brick or stone,
roofed with tile. Koreans dressed in white were plowing with oxen;
Chinese farmers in blue were plowing with horses. Rhododendrons gave
a lovely roseate tinge to the rocks and hills on either side. It was
easy for the passing traveler to see which country bore the greater
appearance of prosperity and thrift.
On the evening of the 27th of April we reached Weju. Fortunately no
official notice had gone before, and there were no trumpets, drums,
harps, sackbuts, psalteries and all kinds of music at hand to make our
lives a burden. A chair was hired for Mr. Underwood, and in the kindly
protection of the deepening twilight we surreptitiously entered these
conveyances and were carried into the city as quietly and unobtrusively
as happy common folks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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