Fifth Avenue (New York, N.Y.); Streets -- New York (State) -- New York
There is no need to go far afield. There is the older New York, with its
memories of Mine Host of oyster-bar and chop-house, of culinary joys and
the ghosts of viands. Yesterday the personality of the landlord was more
in evidence and that of his staff happily less so. Mine Host was an
individual and not yet a corporation. He oozed welcome. He walked from
table to table, bland, smiling, eager for commendation, keen-eared for
criticism. Although paid for, it was none the less his hospitality that
was being dispensed, and he was acutely sensitive to appreciation. His
retainers were fewer in number and were retainers only. Then, from the
Spanish Main the last of the pirates disappeared, bequeathing to their
descendants the tables and hat-stands of the hostelries of Fifth Avenue
and the Great White Way. There they are today, insolent-eyed and
"walk-the-plank" mannered to all but the few whom they feel they can
hold to high ransom. To those of us who do not belong to that few of the
race of Dives there is satisfaction in turning over the old
bills-of-fare, and musing on the repasts that were once within the reach
of the purses of the humble.
When Horace Greeley arrived in New York in 1831, he had ten dollars in
his pocket and knew no one in the city. He entered a tavern. The
bartender looked him over superciliously. "We are too high for you. We
charge six a week." Horace agreed with him, and found shelter in a
boarding-house where he paid two dollars and a half a week.
Occasionally, when the table there palled, he and the other boarders
sought a change by repairing to a Sixpenny Dining Saloon in Beekman
Street where a splendid feast was to be had for a shilling (twelve and a
half cents).
Two years after Horace Greeley arrived in New York Holt's Hotel opened
its doors. It was the wonder of the town, the largest and most
magnificent inn erected up to that time. Even by rich people its prices
were thought exorbitant. They were one dollar and a half a day. That, of
course, meant the American plan. Even the panic years, from 1835 to
1837, when prices soared in a manner that brought consternation to the
breasts of careful housekeepers, do not very much startle us who are
living in the present Anno Domini 1918. Philip Hone, in his "Diary,"
wrote of living in New York in 1835 as exorbitantly dear, and went on to
say: "it falls pretty hard on persons like me who live upon their
incomes, and harder still upon that large and respectable class whose
support is derived from fixed salaries." The sweat of the brow of New
York all ran into the pockets of the farmers. Hone laid in a winter
stock of butter at twenty-nine cents a pound. "In the course of
thirty-four years housekeeping I have never buttered my bread at so
extravagant a rate." In March, 1836, he recorded: "The market was higher
this morning than I have ever known it. Beef, twenty-five cents; mutton
and veal, fifteen to eighteen; small turkeys, one dollar and a half.
Poor New York!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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