Fifty Years a Hunter and Trapper: Autobiography, experiences and observations of Eldred Nathaniel Woodcock during his fifty years of hunting and trapping.Woodcock, E. N. (Eldred Nathaniel)
General
Fifty Years a Hunter and Trapper: Autobiography, experiences and observations of Eldred Nathaniel Woodcock during his fifty years of hunting and trapping.
Woodcock, E. N. (Eldred Nathaniel)
Hunting; Trapping
For otter I prefer the single spring Newhouse trap, owing to the fact
that it is more easily concealed than the double spring trap. I see
that a number of writers think that the No. 5 bear trap should have a
larger spread of jaw so as to catch higher on the bear's foot. Now I
do not intend to dictate to others as to what kind of a trap they
should use, not in the least, for I have my own ideas as to traps and
guns as well as the manner of using them. Now as for myself, I think
the Newhouse No. 5 bear trap could not be improved, as to spread of
jaws. The grasp is just right to catch the bear through the thick of
the foot where there is no danger of the bear twisting the foot off.
In case where the trap has a spread of jaws sufficient to grasp above
the foot and for more space for the bear to place his foot well
between the jaws, will say there is plenty of room in the Newhouse
No. 5 trap, if the trap is properly set. I also see that some
trappers want the swivel in the trap chain 8 or ten inches from the
bed piece, or the point of fastening. Now I am somewhat puzzled as to
an explanation in this matter, as it seems to me that the swivel will
be far less liable to become useless by being twisted or wound around
saplings, etc., where the swivel is close to the bed piece than it
would be if placed eight or ten inches out in the chain. I prefer to
have the swivel in my trap chain placed as close to the trap as
possible.
[Illustration: WOODCOCK AND HIS STEEL TRAPS.]
Another thing that I have but little use for is a trap from which the
animal must take the bait in order to spring it, for often the animal
will go up close enough to a trap to inspect the bait but will not
touch it.
I do not think that there should be a latch on any trap, as I think
that often the animal's foot is thrown free from the trap, or at
least causes many catches by the tips of the toes and the animal
escapes, becoming a hard animal to catch thereafter. The animal
having a part of the foot resting on the latch and the toes striking
the treadle sufficient to unlatch the treadle, the released jaw will
throw the latch with the portion of the animal's foot resting on the
latch, free from the trap, or at least may often cause a slight catch
of the toes or other part of the foot. All that is necessary is to
leave an extension to the arm or heel of the treadle to catch over
the jaw of the trap. The trap may be made to spring hard or easy by
simply raising the pan slightly higher or lowering it to catch
farther on to the jaw of the trap more or less as desired.
Now boys, I have given a few of my ideas as to traps, and if any of
you have any suggestions to make as to improvements on the animal
steel traps, let us hear from you through the columns of the H-T-T. I
believe that manufacturers of animal or game traps would be glad to
make any improvements on their traps could they be convinced that the
suggested improvements were really of any value.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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