Fifty Years a Hunter and Trapper: Autobiography, experiences and observations of Eldred Nathaniel Woodcock during his fifty years of hunting and trapping.Woodcock, E. N. (Eldred Nathaniel)
General
Fifty Years a Hunter and Trapper: Autobiography, experiences and observations of Eldred Nathaniel Woodcock during his fifty years of hunting and trapping.
Woodcock, E. N. (Eldred Nathaniel)
Hunting; Trapping
As to animals taking bait, will say, I have never had much trouble in
getting meat or carnivorous animals to take bait, but sometimes it is
necessary to use a different bait than what they will take at other
times. This, undoubtedly, is owing to what the animals have been
accustomed to feeding on. If the animal is fed on a certain kind of
food and will no longer take readily to it as a bait, then use
something different. For instance, I found it difficult on the
Pacific Coast in the vicinity of Vancouver to get mink to take flesh
as a bait, while they readily took other baits. When the mink will
not take bait readily, then of course the deadfall does not make a
successful mink trap. While the deadfall cannot take the place of the
steel trap, yet a well constructed deadfall under some conditions has
advantages over the steel trap. Often a deadfall can be set in a
thicket of evergreen trees or under a single pine, hemlock or other
evergreen tree, or it may be protected by building a frame of poles
above the trap and cover with boughs to partly protect the trap from
the heavy snows. Now you have a trap that will work alright, where a
steel trap would freeze down from sleet or other causes and would not
spring; nor will Johnny Graball carry off a deadfall.
No, boys, do not shun the deadfall when trapping skunk in a section
where material is convenient to build it with, and especially if you
are near your trapping grounds so that you can go out at times and
put up a trap or two so as to have a good line of deadfalls ready
when the trapping season arrives.
CHAPTER XXV.
Advice from a Veteran.
In trapping, cultivate the habit of taking great care in making sets.
Always leave the surface level. As you cannot tell what particular
animal may come your way, prepare for the most cunning. Note the
surroundings of your set and use such material for covering as may be
found there so that all may appear natural. Never stake the traps
down for a dry land set, but select for a drag an old limb or root;
not one fresh cut if avoidable. Obliterate your tracks; John Sneakem
will not then catch on so quick. Above all things, never molest
another's traps.
The jump-trap as now made by the Oneida Community has thicker jaws
than the old style and therefore it is not so liable to foot the
animal. I find it a good trap to use.
For mink, a good set is close to a bank and near the edge of the
water. The bait if any is used, should be fresh muskrat, rabbit or
chicken. All are good. If you wish for scent, the musk from the
animal you are trapping is preferable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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