Finding the Worth While in the SouthwestSaunders, Charles Francis
History
Finding the Worth While in the Southwest
Saunders, Charles Francis
Southwest, New -- Description and travel
South of Los Angeles, 125 miles, is San Diego, reached either by rail,
steamer, or automobile. If the last way is chosen, going and returning
may be done over different highways, one following the coast, the other
running further inland via Riverside. Both roads are excellent. Forty
miles before reaching San Diego, you pass within calling distance of
Mission San Luis Rey (St. Louis, the King)—4 miles east of Oceanside, a
railroad stop where conveyance may be had for the Mission. San Luis Rey
was founded in 1798 and in its proportions rivaled San Juan Capistrano.
It is still an imposing establishment, though restored with rather too
heavy a hand to suit the artistic sense. The situation is charming, on a
knoll in the midst of a noble valley, emerald green in winter and
spring, the San Luis Rey River flowing close by the Mission. A community
of hospitable Franciscan brothers occupies the premises, and religious
services are regularly held in the church. Twenty miles further up the
river (eastward), a pleasant drive, is San Luis Rey’s sub-mission or
_asistencia_, San Antonio de Pala, which no lover of the picturesque
should miss visiting. White-walled and red-tiled, the quaint little
church with a remarkable, white bell-tower set not on it but beside it,
is one’s beau ideal of an old mission. The setting, too, is satisfying.
On every hand are the mountains; a stone’s throw away ripples the little
river; and clustered close by is a picturesque village of about 300
Indians, to whom a resident priest, with rooms in the Mission, is
_cura_. Both Mission San Luis Rey and this outpost of Pala were
constructed by Indians under the supervision of the famous Padre Peyri,
one of the most forceful and devoted of the early Franciscans in
California. He gave the best of his life to his wilderness flock, and
years after his departure, the Indians, in reverence of his memory,
would still offer up their prayers before his picture as before a
saint’s.
San Diego, a city claiming a population of 100,000, is spread over
seaward-looking hills affording a delightful view of the land-locked Bay
of San Diego and the Pacific Ocean going down to China. The mountains of
Old Mexico, too, only 20 miles away, make a feature in the prospect. If
you are in any doubt what to do in San Diego, you need only stroll
around to the neighborhood of the Plaza, and you will be shown. Street
cars, automobiles, “rubberneck” busses and tourist agency windows are
hung with notices of places to see and trips to take, and the streets
are sprinkled with uniformed officials emblazoned with gold lace, to
give you details. You may have a good time on any of these jaunts, if
you are good-natured and like a bit of roughing it (for San Diego’s
vicinity has not as yet reached Los Angeles County’s excellence in
roads); but to give you a start I would itemize the following as not to
be overlooked:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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