First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
[3] So the Abyssinian chief informed M. Krapf that he loved the French,
but could not endure us--simply the effect of manner.
[4] The first is the name of the individual; the second is that of her
father.
[5] This delicate operation is called by the Arabs Daasah (whence the
"Dosch ceremony" at Cairo). It is used over most parts of the Eastern
world as a remedy for sickness and fatigue, and is generally preferred to
Takbis or Dugmo, the common style of shampooing, which, say many Easterns,
loosens the skin.
[6] The Somal, from habit, enjoy no other variety; they even showed
disgust at my Latakia. Tobacco is grown in some places by the Gudabirsi
and other tribes; but it is rare and bad. Without this article it would be
impossible to progress in East Africa; every man asks for a handful, and
many will not return milk for what they expect to receive as a gift. Their
importunity reminds the traveller of the Galloway beggars some generations
ago:--"They are for the most part great chewers of tobacco, and are so
addicted to it, that they will ask for a piece thereof from a stranger as
he is riding on his way; and therefore let not a traveller want an ounce
or two of roll tobacco in his pocket, and for an inch or two thereof he
need not fear the want of a guide by day or night."
[7] Flesh boiled in large slices, sun-dried, broken to pieces and fried in
ghee.
[8] The Bahr Assal or Salt Lake, near Tajurrah, annually sends into the
interior thousands of little matted parcels containing this necessary.
Inland, the Bedouins will rub a piece upon the tongue before eating, or
pass about a lump, as the Dutch did with sugar in the last war; at Harar a
donkey-load is the price of a slave; and the Abyssinians say of a
_millionaire_ "he eateth salt."
[9] The element found upon the maritime plain is salt or brackish. There
is nothing concerning which the African traveller should be so particular
as water; bitter with nitre, and full of organic matter, it causes all
those dysenteric diseases which have made research in this part of the
world a Upas tree to the discoverer. Pocket filters are invaluable. The
water of wells should be boiled and passed through charcoal; and even then
it might be mixed to a good purpose with a few drops of proof spirit. The
Somal generally carry their store in large wickerwork pails. I preferred
skins, as more portable and less likely to taint the water.
[10] Here, as in Arabia, boxes should be avoided, the Bedouins always
believe them to contain treasures. Day after day I have been obliged to
display the contents to crowds of savages, who amused themselves by
lifting up the case with loud cries of "hoo! hoo!! hoo!!!" (the popular
exclamation of astonishment), and by speculating upon the probable amount
of dollars contained therein.
[11] The following list of my expenses may perhaps be useful to future
travellers. It must be observed that, had the whole outfit been purchased
at Aden, a considerable saving would have resulted:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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