First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
_19th November_.--At dawn the camels were brought in; they had been
feeding at large all night, which proves the safety of the country. After
three hours' work at loading, the caravan started up the watercourse. The
road was rugged; at times the watercourse was blocked up with boulders,
which compelled the travellers temporarily to leave it. With a little
cutting away of projecting rocks, which are of soft stone, the road might
be made tolerably easy. Scattered and stunted Acacias, fringed with fresh
green foliage, relieved the eye; all else was barren rock. After marching
about two miles the traveller was obliged to halt by the Sultan; a
messenger arrived with the order. The halting-place is called Damalay. It
is in the bed of the watercourse, stagnating rain, foul-looking but sweet,
lying close by. As in all other parts of this Fiumara, the bed was dotted
with a bright green tree, sometimes four feet high, resembling a willow.
Lieutenant Speke spread his mat in the shade, and spent the rest of the
day at his diary and in conversation with the natives.
The next day was also spent at Damalay. The interpreter, Mohammed Ahmed, a
Somali of the Warsingali tribe, and all the people, refused positively to
advance. Lieutenant Speke started on foot to Las Kuray in search of the
Abban: he was followed at some distance by the Somal, and the whole party
returned on hearing a report that the chief and the Abban were on the way.
The traveller seems on this occasion to have formed a very low estimate of
the people. He stopped their food until they promised to start the next
day.
_21st November_.--The caravan marched at gun-fire, and, after a mile, left
the watercourse, and ascended by a rough camel-path a buttress of hill
leading to the ridge of the mountains. The ascent was not steep, but the
camels were so bad that they could scarcely be induced to advance. The
country was of a more pleasant aspect, a shower of rain having lately
fallen. At this height the trees grow thicker and finer, the stones are
hidden by grass and heather, and the air becomes somewhat cooler. After a
six miles' march Lieutenant Speke encamped at a place called Adhai. Sweet
water was found within a mile's walk;--the first spring from which our
traveller drank. Here he pitched a tent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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