First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
The Yubbay Tug watercourse begins abruptly, being as broad and deep at the
head as it is in the trunk. When Lieutenant Speke visited it, it was dry;
there was but a thin growth of trees in it, showing that water does not
long remain there. Immediately north of it lies a woody belt, running up
to the foot of the mountains, and there bifurcating along the base.
Southwards, the Yubbay is said to extend to a considerable distance, but
Somali ideas of distance are peculiar, and absorption is a powerful agent
in these latitudes.
Till the 21st December Lieutenant Speke was delayed at the Yubbay Tug. His
ropes had been stolen by discharged camel-men, and he was unable to
replace them.
On the 15th December one of the Midgan or Serviles was tried for stealing
venison from one of his fellows. The Sultan, before his departure, had
commissioned three of Lieutenant Speke's attendants to act as judges in
case of such emergency: on this occasion the interpreter was on the
Woolsack, and he sensibly fined the criminal two sheep to be eaten on the
road. From inquiries, I have no doubt that these Midgan are actually
reduced by famine at times to live on a food which human nature abhors. In
the northern part of the Somali country I never heard of cannibalism,
although the Servile tribes will eat birds and other articles of food
disdained by Somal of gentle blood. Lieutenant Speke complains of the
scarcity and the quality of the water, "which resembles the mixture
commonly known as black draught." Yet it appears not to injure health; and
the only disease found endemic is an ophthalmia, said to return
periodically every three years. The animals have learned to use sparingly
what elsewhere is a daily necessary; camels are watered twice a month,
sheep thrice, and horses every two or three days. No wild beasts or birds,
except the rock pigeon and duck, ever drink except when rain falls.
The pickaxe and spade belonging to the traveller were greatly desired; in
one place water was found, but more generally the people preferred digging
for honey in the rocks. Of the inhabitants we find it recorded that, like
all Nomads, they are idle to the last degree, contenting themselves with
tanned skins for dress and miserable huts for lodging. Changing ground for
the flocks and herds is a work of little trouble; one camel and a donkey
carry all the goods and chattels, including water, wife, and baby. Milk in
all stages (but never polluted by fire), wild honey, and flesh, are their
only diet; some old men have never tasted grain. Armed with spear and
shield, they are in perpetual dread of an attack. It is not strange that
under such circumstances the population should be thin and scattered; they
talk of thousands going to war, but the wary traveller suspects gross
exaggeration. They preserve the abominable Galla practice of murdering
pregnant women in hopes of mutilating a male foetus.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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