First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
_11th January_, 1855.--About 10 A.M. the caravan started without the Abban
across the head of the Jid Ali valley. The land was flat, abounding in
Acacia, and showing signs of sun parched grass cropped close by the
cattle. After a five miles' march the travellers came to a place called
Biyu Hablay; they unloaded under a tree and made a Kraal. Water was
distant. Around were some courses, ending abruptly in the soft absorbing
ground. Here the traveller was met by two Dulbahantas, who demanded his
right to enter their lands, and insinuated that a force was gathering to
oppose him. They went away, however, after a short time, threatening with
smiles to come again. Lieutenant Speke was also informed that the Southern
Dulbahanta tribes had been defeated with loss by the northern clans, and
that his journey would be interrupted by them. Here the traveller remarked
how willing are the Somal to study: as usual in this country, any man who
reads the Koran and can write out a verset upon a board is an object of
envy. The people are fanatic. They rebuked the interpreter for not praying
regularly, for eating from a Christian's cooking pot, and for cutting
deer's throats low down (to serve as specimens); they also did not approve
of the traveller's throwing date stones into the fire. As usual, they are
fearful boasters. Their ancestors turned Christians out of the country.
They despise guns. They consider the Frank formidable only behind walls:
they are ready to fight it out in the plain, and they would gallop around
cannon so that not a shot would tell. Vain words to conceal the hearts of
hares! Lieutenant Speke justly remarks that, on account of the rough way
in which they are brought up, the Somal would become excellent policemen;
they should, however, be separated from their own people, and doubtless
the second generation might be trained into courage.
At Biyu Hablay Lieutenant Speke, finding time as well as means deficient,
dropped all idea of marching to Berberah. He wished to attempt a north-
western route to Hais, but the Rer Hamaturwa (a clan of the Habr Gerhajis
who occupy the mountain) positively refused passage. Permission was
accorded by that clan to march due north upon Bunder Jedid, where,
however, the traveller feared that no vessel might be found. As a last
resource he determined to turn to the north-east, and, by a new road
through the Habr Gerhajis, to make Las Kuray.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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