First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
"At sunrise on the 22nd we resumed our journey, the weather becoming warm
and the grass scanty. At noon we halted near Shaykh Othman. I was glad to
find that Deeni had succeeded in converting the Ras el Caffilah from an
avowed enemy to a staunch friend, at least outwardly so; he has now become
as civil and obliging as he was before the contrary. There being no water
at this station, I desired my servant Adam not to make any bread,
contenting myself with the same fare as that of the preceding evening.
This displeasing Datah Mahomed, some misunderstanding arose, which, from
their ignorance of each other's language, might, but for the interference
of the Ras el Caffilah and Deeni, have led to serious results. An
explanation ensued, which ended in Datah Mahomed seizing me by the beard,
hugging and embracing me in a manner truly unpleasant. I then desired Adam
to make him some bread and coffee, and harmony was once more restored.
This little disturbance convinced me that if once left among these savages
without any interpreter, that I should be placed in a very dangerous
situation. The Ras el Caffilah also told me that unless he saw that the
road was clear for me to Hurrur, and that there was no danger to be
apprehended, that he could not think of leaving me, but should take me
with him to Tajoorah. He continued, 'You know not the Emir of Hurrur: when
he hears of your approach he will cause you to be waylaid by the Galla.
Why not come with me to Tajoorah? If you fear being in want of provisions
we have plenty, and you shall share all we have!' I was much surprised at
this change of conduct on the part of the Ras el Caffilah, and by way of
encouraging him to continue friendly, spared not to flatter him, saying it
was true I did not know him before, but now I saw he was a man of
excellent disposition. At three P.M. we again moved forward. Grass became
more abundant; in some places it was luxuriant and yet green. We halted at
eight P.M. The night was cold with a heavy dew, and there being no fuel, I
again contented myself with parched grain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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