First Footsteps in East AfricaBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
First Footsteps in East Africa
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Harar -- Description and travel; Harari language; Horn of Africa -- Description and travel
"I now perceived that all hope of reaching Hurrur was at an end. Vexed and
disappointed at having suffered so much in vain, I was obliged to resign
the idea of going there for the following reasons: The Mission treasury
was at so low an ebb that I had left Shoa with only three German crowns,
and the prospect of meeting on the road Mahomed Ali in charge of the
second division of the Embassy and the presents, who could have supplied
me with money. The constant demands of Datah Mahomed for tobacco, for
cloth, in fact for everything he saw, would become ten times more annoying
were I left with him without an interpreter. The Tajoorians, also, one
all, begged me not to remain, saying, 'Think not of your property, but
only of your and your servants' lives. Come with us to Tajoorah; we will
travel quick, and you shall share our provisions.' At last I consented to
this new arrangement, and Datah Mahomed made no objection. This
individual, however, did not leave me till he had extorted from me my best
mule, all my Tobes (eight in number), and three others, which I borrowed
from the caravan people. He departed about midnight, saying that he would
take away his mule in the morning.
"At 4 A.M. on the 26th I was disturbed by Datah Mahomed, who took away his
mule, and then asked for more cloth, which was resolutely refused. He then
begged for my 'Camblee,' which, as it was my only covering, I would not
part with, and checked him by desiring him to strip me if he wished it. He
then left me and returned in about an hour, with a particular friend who
had come a long way expressly to see me. I acknowledged the honour, and
deeply regretted that I had only words to pay for it, he himself having
received my last Tobe. 'However,' I continued, seeing the old man's brow
darken, 'I will endeavour to borrow one from the Caffilah people.' Deeni
brought me one, which was rejected as inferior. I then said, 'You see my
dress--that cloth is better than what I wear--but here; take my turban.'
This had the desired effect; the cloth was accepted. At length Datah
Mahomed delivered me over to the charge of the Ras el Caffilah in a very
impressive manner, and gave me his blessing. We resumed our journey at 2
P.M., when I joined heartily with the caravan people in their 'Praise be
to God! we are at length clear of the Bedoos!' About 8 P.M. we halted at
Metta.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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