Whether Sergius Aurata (or Orata) took or not his cognomen[534] from the fish _Aurata_, all writers identify him as the first to build a _vivarium_ for oysters. From their sale, from the income derived from the vapour baths (_pensiles balineas_), of which he was also the pioneer, and from the villas erected on his property, close to Baiæ, the baths, and the oysters, he amassed an enormous fortune. He posed as the Pontiff of the Palate; his was the final decision, from which lay no appeal, as to which sea or which part of what river produced the best of the various fishes. From the not unnatural bias of owner and founder he adjudged the Lucrine oysters finest of all. Pliny’s words (IX. 79) that, when Orata “ennobled” the Lucrine, British oysters had not yet reached Rome convey a gratifying compliment to our insular pride, somewhat dashed by Pliny plumping for the Circeian.[535] Oysters throve with travelling and a change to new waters.[536] The Brundisian oyster when planted in Lake Lucrinus not only kept its own flavour, but took on that of its new home. Apicius, not our gourmet M. Gabius, but an initialless successor, would have proved an admirable Quartermaster-General.[537] When “Trajan was in Parthia at a distance of many days’ journey from the sea, he sent him oysters, which he kept fresh by a clever contrivance of his own invention; real oysters not like the sham anchovies which the cook of Nicomedes, king of the Bithynians, made for him,” when far inland and yearning for oysters. In a comedy by Euphron,[538] a _chef_ sings his teacher’s marvellous skill:— “I am the pupil of Soterides Who when his king was distant from the sea Full twelve days’ journey and in winter’s depth Fed him with rich anchovies to his wish And made the guests to marvel. B. How was that? A. He took a _female_ turnip, shred it fine Into the figure of the delicate fish.” * * * * * No wonder the king spake to his admiring guests thus:— “A cook is quite as useful as a poet, And quite as wise, as these anchovies show it.” To Fulvius Herpinus or Lippinus belongs the credit of being the first—just before the Civil War—to fatten the _Cochlea_, or sea-snail, in a _vivarium_. By careful collecting from Africa and Illyrica and skilful feeding, his cockles became renowned for size and number.[539]