Five years in New Zealand (1859 to 1864)Booth, Robert B.
History
Five years in New Zealand (1859 to 1864)
Booth, Robert B.
New Zealand -- Description and travel
We proceeded to Melbourne by rail and put up at one of the principal
hotels. Here we discovered that our accident had caused us to miss the
China mail boat which was to have conveyed us to Point de Galle, and I
would now have almost a whole month to remain at Melbourne. This news
was I fear more welcome than otherwise. I wished to see something of
Melbourne, and here was the opportunity forced upon me, so I decided to
make the very most of my time.
Melbourne, even at this period, was a considerable city, handsome and
well laid out on the most approved modern principles, with straight and
spacious streets and squares, and possessing throughout architecture
equal to that of the best modern English towns, in addition to some
really magnificent public buildings. A considerable portion of the city
stood on a gentle slope, and along many of the streets between the
roadway and the footpaths, ran continuous streams of pure spring water,
over which, when in flood, foot passengers were taken by carriage.
Along the banks of the Yarrow were lovely gardens and extensive parks,
and many a pleasant row I had under the shade of the huge pine and gum
trees. The river frequently overflowed its banks and submerged the
low-lying country between the city and the port, at which times I have
travelled by train while the rails were under water. Some of the suburbs
and watering places around Melbourne, such as St. Kilda, were
exceedingly picturesque.
A railway was just then opened from Melbourne to Ballarat, the scene of
the famous gold diggings to which Melbourne is primarily indebted for
her present magnificence and prosperity. Extensive quartz crushing by
machinery was then being carried out, and a visit to the locality was
most interesting. We made many excursions up country, and altogether
thoroughly enjoyed our time. So much so indeed that had another accident
detained me longer I would not have felt any regret.
Early in August I started by the P. and O. mail boat for Ceylon, with
mutual regrets on Burton's part and on my own that our pleasant holiday
was ended. I never met Burton again.
At King George's Sound, Northern Australia, was a small coaling station,
possessing only a score or so of houses or stores, and one hotel
so-called. On arrival we went on shore and were immediately greeted by a
number of the most wretched specimens of humanity I had yet seen. They
were diminutive in stature, perfectly naked with the exception of a
dirty rag of blanket twisted about the shoulders and waist, out of the
folds of which issued a wreath of smoke from the fire stick without
which the Australian aboriginal rarely leaves his or her wigwam. Their
hair was plastered down on the head with thick ochre paint, and they
were disgustingly filthy and altogether unpleasant to look at. They
invariably asked for "sixpence," which amount seemed to represent the
sum of their earthly happiness, and with most of them was the only word
of English they could speak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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