When I was on my way to Almora from Mansarowar and Kailas, one day I had
nothing with me to eat. I was quite at a loss how to get on without
food. There being no human habitation in that part of the country, I
could expect no help, but pray to God, and take my way patiently on.
Between Mansarowar and Taklakhal, by the side of a road, I observed a
tent pitched and several Sadhus (holy men), called Chohans, sitting
outside it who numbered about seventeen in all. As to their dress, &c.,
what Babu M.M. Chatterji says is quite correct. When I went to them
they entertained me very kindly, and saluted me by uttering, "Ram Ram."
Returning their salutations, I sat down with them, and they entered upon
conversation with me on different subjects, asking me first the place I
was coming from and whither I was going. There was a chief of them
sitting inside the tent, and engaged in reading a book. I inquired
about his name and the book he was reading from, one of his Chelas, who
answered me in rather a serious tone, saying that his name was Guru
Koothum-pa, and the book he was reading was Rig Veda. Long before, I
had been told by some Pundits of Bengal that the Tibetan Lamas were
well-acquainted with the Rig Veda. This proved what they had told me.
After a short time, when his reading was over, he called me in by one of
his Chelas, and I went to him. He, also bidding me "Ram Ram," received
me very gently and courteously, and began to talk with me mildly in pure
Hindi. He addressed me in words such as follows:--"You should remain
here for some time and see the fair at Mansarowar, which is to come off
shortly. Here you will have plenty of time and suitable retreats for
meditation, &c. I will help you in whatever I can." He spoke as above
for some time, and I replied that what he said was right, and that I
would gladly have stayed, but there was some reason which prevented me.
He understood my object immediately, and then, having given me some
private advice as to my spiritual progress, bade me farewell. Before
this he had come to know that I was hungry, and so wished me to take
some food. He ordered one of his Chelas to supply me with food, which
he did immediately. In order to get hot water ready for my ablutions, he
prepared fire by blowing into a cow-dung cake, which burst into flames
at once. This is a common practice among the Himalayan Lamas. It is
also fully explained by M.M. Chatterji, and so need not be repeated.
As long as I was there with the said Lama, he never persuaded me to
accept Buddhism or any other religion, but only said, "Hinduism is the
best religion; you should believe in the Lord Mahadeva--he will do good
to you. You are still quite a young man--do not be enticed away by the
necromancy of anybody." Having had a conversation with the Mahatma as
described above for about three hours, I at last took leave and resumed
my journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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