Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa: With Sixteen Illustrations in Colour by William Parkinson and Sixteen Other Illustrations, Second EditionHutton, Edward
History
Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa: With Sixteen Illustrations in Colour by William Parkinson and Sixteen Other Illustrations, Second Edition
Hutton, Edward
Art -- Italy -- Florence; Genoa (Italy) -- History; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
There are many ways that lead from Florence to Vallombrosa--by the
hills, by the valley, and by rail--and the best of these is by the
valley, but the shortest is by rail, for by that way you may leave
Florence at noon and be in your inn by three; but if you go by road you
must set out at dawn, so that when evening falls you may hear the
whispering woods of the rainy valley Vallis Imbrosa at your journey's
end. That is a pleasant way that takes you first to Settignano out of
the dust of Via Aretina by the river. Thence you may go by the byways to
Compiobbi, past Villa Gamberaja and Terenzano, among the terraced vines
and the old olives, coming to the river at last at Compiobbi, as I said,
just under Montacuto with its old castle, now a tiny village, on the
road to the Incontro, that convent on the hilltop where, as it is said,
St. Francis met St. Dominic on the way to Rome. The Via Aretina, deep in
dust that has already whitened the cypresses, passes through Compiobbi
on its way southward and west; but for me I will cross the river, and go
once more by the byways through the valley now, where the wind whispers
in the poplars beside Arno, and the river passes singing gently on its
way. It is a long road full of the quiet life of the country--here a
little farm, there a village full of children; a vineyard heavy with
grapes, where a man walks leisurely, talking to his dog, the hose on his
shoulders; a little copse that runs down to the stones of Arno, where a
little girl sits spinning with her few goats, singing softly some
endless chant; a golden olive garden among the corn, where there is no
sound but the song of the cicale that sing all day long. And there are
so many windings, and though the road leaves the river, it seems always
to be returning, always to be bidding good-bye: sometimes it climbs high
up above the stream, which just there is very still, sleeping in the
shadow under the trees; sometimes it dips quite down to the river bank,
a great stretch of dusty shingle across which the stream passes like a
road of silver. Slowly in front of me a great flat-bottomed boat crossed
the river with two great white oxen. And then at a turning of the way a
flock of sheep were coming on in a cloud of dust, when suddenly, at a
word from the shepherd who led them, they crossed the wide beach to
drink at the river, while he waited under the trees by the roadside.
There were trees full of cherries too, so full that in the sunshine they
seemed to dance for joy, clothed all in scarlet, so red, so ripe was the
fruit. Presently I came upon an old man high up in a tree gathering them
in a great basket, and since I was thirsty I asked him for drink, and
since I was hungry I asked him for food. He climbed down the great
ladder, coming towards me kindly enough, and drew me into the shadow.
"Eat as you will, signore, and quench your thirst," said he, as he
lifted a handful of the shining fruit, a handful running over, and
offered it to me.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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