Badia a Settimo must have been magnificent with its moat and three
other towers, each of which had a drawbridge. Now much of the ancient
structure lies under fifteen feet of mud deposited by the perpetual
inundations of the Arno, the monks’ refectory has been divided
into cellars, the fine old abbey-church with its solemn, almost
Egyptian-looking, columns is a _tinaia_ where wine is made and the
original height can only be seen by an excavation which has been dug
round one of the columns. The monastery is a private villa, and the
lovely cloister with its slender pillars, beautifully carved capitals
and expanse of grass serves as a playground for the children. The
present church was built in the thirteenth century at right angles to
the ancient abbey-church and nearer to the campanile, on artificially
raised ground. The steps which led up to the door are already deep
under the earth and the bases of the columns supporting the loggia in
front of the church are more than half buried. The high altar is a
fine piece of _pietra dura_ work, and round the top of the choir is
a pretty frieze by one of the Della Robbia, of four-winged heads of
angels alternating with a kneeling lamb holding a banner, emblem of
the guild of wool manufacturers. In the left hand chapel is a small
ambrey, or receptacle for the holy oil, by Desiderio da Settignano,
of most exquisite design and workmanship; the walls of the chapel are
frescoed by Giovanni di San Giovanni, and above the altar is kept
a silver casket containing the bones of St Quentin. The saint was
beheaded at Paris a thousand or more years ago and transported his
bones by some miracle to a church on the opposite side of the river;
not liking his quarters he moved in 1187 to the high altar of the
ancient abbey-church, but still dissatisfied he placed the silver
casket every morning in this chapel, which was the greatest miracle of
all as the chapel was only built late in the thirteenth century. “And
here he still is,” said the sacristan, “but without his head, which he
could not find when he left Paris.” A short corridor behind the high
altar leads into the old chapel of Lapi des Spinis, built according
to an inscription in 1315. Dim traces of frescoes by some follower of
Giotto are still to be seen, but the chapel is so silted up with mud
that the present floor very nearly touches the level of the spring of
the groined arches of the roof.
[Illustration: (Drawing of woman walking in front of building with tower.
Tower has statue in niche. Man riding ox cart at the side.)]
FOOTNOTES:
[70] Abbey.
[71] J. A. Symonds, _Renaissance in Italy._ _Italian Literature._ Part
I. p. 440.
[Illustration: BOCCACCIO,
By ANONIMO.
(_Villa di Poggio Gherardo_).]
[Illustration: MICHEL ANGELO,
By LEONE LEONI.
(_Villa di Gamberaia_).]
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