When on his way from Bologna to Florence in 1580 Montaigne visited
Pratolino and quaintly remarks, “the Grand Duke has used all his five
senses to beautify it.... The house is contemptible as seen from afar,
but very fine when you come near, though not so handsome as some of
ours in France.... But marvellous is a grotto with several chambers;
this surpasses anything we have seen elsewhere. It is all encrusted
with certain stuff they say was brought from the mountains which is
fastened on with invisible nails. Not only does the movement of water
make music and harmony, but it causes various statues to move and doors
to shut, animals also plunge in to drink, and other such devices. In
one moment the whole grotto is filled with water, every chair squirts
it over your thighs, and fleeing therefrom up the steps to the villa,
if they choose they can start a thousand jets and drench you to the
skin.” Montaigne goes on to describe the statues and the gardens, and
particularly notices the ingenious manner of storing ice and snow,
much as is done at the present time, invented by that universal genius
Bernardo Buontalento, and the building of the huge statue of the
Apennines, then nearly finished. Twelve years later Sir Henry Wotton
writing to Lord Zouch in June about the feast day of St John says: “it
was somewhat more than ordinary upon the arrival of the Count di Santa
Fiore in the court here, who is espoused unto Leonora Ursina, but of
the marriage day no speech; for the Grand Duke hath desire to celebrate
the marriage of his Niece, and the other, both in one day, because
they have been jointly brought up together and (for congruity sake)
aparall’d all days alike. The fore-named Earl is nephew of the lively
Cardinal Sforza.... In person not tall nor low, and one of the worst
faces a man shall ordinarily see, so that some think Leonora Ursina
would be contented to revoke the match, and take her first offer.” In
August he writes again, “since my last unto your honour (contrary to
the expectation of all) is the marriage of Leonora Ursina accomplished
at Pratolino, where the Cardinal Sforza arrived on the 16 of August,
and gave the ring on Sunday last. I hear the Gentlewoman to be in some
pensiveness of mind and to have abandoned her Cythern, on which she was
wont to play; having rather been the wife of the Prince of Transylvania
than of the Count of Santa Fiore, but that, since she saw him, or
rather (as some say) since she tried him. To grace her husband the
better, they style him Duke Sforza, which here we laugh at.” The court,
he notes in a later letter, “is still at Pratolino attending unto the
fresh air.”[58]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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