Florida trails as seen from Jacksonville to Key West and from November to April inclusivePackard, Winthrop
History
Florida trails as seen from Jacksonville to Key West and from November to April inclusive
Packard, Winthrop
Florida -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Florida
refilling, the supposed everlasting foundation having been ripped out in
a night by the wind and sea. Men cling like birds to slender staging or
insecure foothold, swaying to one side to let the train pass, then
swaying back again to go on with their work. Through the piling beneath
race the sapphire tides, and to lose hold for a moment is to be drowned
in a suffocating transparency of miraculous color.
A lean, knob-muscled navvy, who has been half-comatose, slumped in an
awkward heap in his seat, rouses to the hail of these men as we pass,
and becomes excited over the work. He explains that he has been in the
hospital for five months, and is just on his way back to the job. The
hurricane took his tent from over his head while he was eating his
dinner, picked him up bodily and hurled him against a pile of railroad
iron, breaking a leg and other bones. Some of his fellow-workers
suffered similarly, some disappeared utterly, drowned in the
opalescence, such toll does the sea take when man penetrates her
mysteries too boldly with his puny strength.
Yet if man’s strength is puny his mind is bold, daring as the sea
itself, and one appreciates that as the train spins on. By and by the
road leaves the embankment and winds totteringly out on piling, far into
the very sea itself, while above loom mighty concrete buttresses
carrying a bridging of railroad iron on steel trestles. A little later
it crawls beneath these trestles in the mighty space between two
buttresses and as one holds his breath in suspense comes to a stop on a
dock at the western tip of Knight’s Key. Beyond that the railroad in the
sea is still in a measure fluent in the minds of its originators and
builders, not having fully crystallized in concrete and iron. You sail
thence four hours or more over the miraculous water, viewing as you go
the fragments of this labor of titans slowly growing along key after
key, waiting yet to be fully pieced together, till you make port beneath
the friendly harbor lights of Key West.
The cleansing tides and the east winds which surge perpetually over the
island keep the city of twenty thousand inhabitants serenely healthy on
Key West, without wells or sewers, paving or street cleaning. Walking
along the dusty streets where shack-like wooden houses are piled
together in that good-natured confusion which marks the usual West
Indian town, one does not go far without having a sudden impulse to
shout with delight, for soon all roads lead to the verge of the island,
the rich, soothing breath of the trade winds and a glimpse of the
miraculous sea. You may come upon this sight as often as you will, you
will never get over the sudden stab of the delight of it.
If environment is the matrix of beauty the
[Illustration: “As one holds his breath in suspense the road comes to a
stop at the western tip of Knight’s Key”]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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