2. The burning test will help in deciding on the composition. (See “Shelter and Clothing,” page 198.) 3. A good woolen or worsted fabric can always be remade. The inexpensive is not cheap unless you wish something which costs little but does not look well or wear well. One should not expect to get blankets of all wool for two dollars a pair. They cost five or six. 4. Shoddy is one kind of recovered wool and is used to cheapen cost of all-wool material. It can be detected because of shortness of the staple of wool, but when mixed is difficult to see. 5. The weave of material affects the wearing quality. A close twill weave is more durable than a basket weave. _Some things to remember about color._ 1. _Blue._ Dark blue in woolen material or gingham usually fades little. Light blue is not as durable in color. 2. _Red._ Woolen material of this color wears well and usually fades little. Red cotton when washed looks less brilliant. It soon fades by washing. 3. _Black and gray._ Woolen materials of gray, white, and black or in combination are generally satisfactory. Cotton materials of gray or black are apt to show starch in washing. 4. _Lavender._ This is a poor color to buy. It fades easily in cotton goods. 5. _Pink._ Fades with washing. If a deep shade be bought it may be satisfactory. 6. _Green._ Usually very unsatisfactory. In good high-priced ginghams it may not fade, but in cheap ones it is apt to turn yellow. 7. _Brown._ Good usually in ginghams, but likely to fade in woolen materials. 8. See chapters on costume design and dressmaking in “Shelter and Clothing,” for suggestions in relation to colors one should wear. * * * * * The above brief suggestions must be considered in the light of the knowledge gained from the study of the chapters on textiles in the companion volume, “Shelter and Clothing.” In purchasing any materials for clothing or household furnishings, remember that demand causes production and those who are intelligent will make the right demands in the right places. Insist on the honest labeling of goods and demand that for which you pay. Why should cotton manufacturers label handkerchiefs which are cotton “pure linen,” and sell them at ten cents? We too should know linen cannot be bought at that price. The United States government employs experts to examine the standards of textiles used in making army, navy, and other uniforms, and will accept only those materials from the contracting manufacturers which stand their tests. If a fuller discussion of the buying of textile materials is desired, see Woolman and McGowan’s “Textiles,” particularly the chapters on consumer’s judgment of textiles, on social and economic conditions, and on clothing budgets. EXERCISES 1. What rules should be borne in mind in planning to buy the furnishings for a home? 2. What should guide one in relation to where to buy? 3. What methods of ordering facilitate shopping?