After the first ten days of North African air, my cough had gone, so
that I was quite able to appreciate the change of scene, the white
buildings, the coloured people, the superb vegetation, the mosques
(but not the mosquitoes, as the latter worried me terribly); and by
degrees the fascination of the climate, the atmosphere of romance and
adventure surrounding the interesting race amongst whom I was living,
took hold of me. My artistic sense was being constantly appealed to,
and everywhere I saw a picture awaiting my brush. The Arabs and Moors,
in their picturesque dresses, were to me extraordinarily attractive,
with their magnificent physique and bearing, and especially the
letter-carriers with their finely moulded ankles and feet with perfect
straight toes. At Tangier I was fortunate enough to behold two of the
most beautiful pictures I have ever seen. I was walking in the bay
one evening, watching the sun set like a ball of fire, dipping into a
sea that shimmered with a thousand opalescent reflections as the
wavelets rippled to my feet, when I came upon a group of swarthy,
naked fishermen hauling in their nets, which were full of leaping fish
that scintillated iridescently. With strong fine movements the men
drew them in, some standing in the water, others on the shore, their
bodies wet with the water that rolled off their mahogany skins in
pearly drops. At each movement of their superb limbs, the play of
muscle attracted my eye, and as they turned, their bodies bathed in
the amber light, I saw a multitude of scales from the fish clinging to
their bodies, like so many sequins, gold in the sun and silver in the
colder light from the east. Spellbound, I watched them falling into
groups and alternating attitudes, which in themselves were
magnificent--an Arabian Nights dream and an ideal composition for the
painter who could depict the movement, colour, and light of a scene
that few men are lucky enough to behold. I shall never forget it and
never see such beauty again, for it is well-nigh impossible that
nature should repeat such perfection, with similar conspiracies of
light, shade, and shadow in exactly the same manner.
[Illustration: GENERAL SMITH-DORRIEN. 1911.]
[Illustration: LORD ROBERTS. 1900.]
[Illustration: LORD KITCHENER. 1899.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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