Fountains of Papal RomeMacVeagh, Fanny Davenport Rogers
History
Fountains of Papal Rome
MacVeagh, Fanny Davenport Rogers
Fountains -- Italy -- Rome
Since Evelyn’s time eight generations
have also found these pleasure-grounds delightful. As full of memories
as of fragrance, these gardens convey a sense of human life once lived
among them and now forever gone, which is as poignant as the smell of
the boxwood hedges in the hot sunshine.
The Villa Borghese has pre-eminently this subtle quality, and therefore
it has become the loveliest as well as the best beloved of all Roman
villas; and it is precisely because it is a Roman garden that its
memories are so compelling. The men and women who have walked in
these long avenues and lingered about these fountains have been the
aristocracy of mankind. England, France, and Germany come here to
gather memories of their great men. Statues to Goethe and Victor Hugo
are not needed. Hugo and Goethe and many more of these noble ghosts
come back, together with a long line of splendid popes and brilliant
cardinals, to haunt the sun-warmed yet shadowy places, never jostling
or disturbing the living but felt by the living in some strange and
undefinable way.
[Illustration: The Fountain of the Amorini.]
These groves and fountains have been the setting for many scenes in
Life’s dramas. There has been a Napoleonic interlude with dancing,
masquerading, and somewhat boisterous merrymaking; and here, amid the
loveliness of an alien civilization, began the last act in the tragedy
of the Stuart Kings. The son of the exiled James II of England lived
and died in Rome, and his children--Prince Charlie and the little Duke
of York--played beneath these trees, as scores of other brothers of
less fateful history have played before and since.[K] Here they came
every morning with their fowling-pieces. High-spirited English lads,
they made of the Italian groves a Sherwood Forest of their own. It was
a far cry at that time to Culloden, and a long way to the cathedral of
Frascati, where the younger brother was to read the funeral service
over the elder. Time means so little in Rome that here in the villa
where the Stuart Princes played, the “adventure of the ’45” seems to
have happened only yesterday.
The villa is at its loveliest in May and October. On every Thursday and
Sunday of this latter month it used to be the custom for the Prince
Borghese to receive all Rome within his gates. Forty to fifty thousand
people would sometimes come to these garden-parties, all classes
mingling yet preserving their identity with the admirable dignity and
self-respect of the Romans. The young Princess Gwendolin Borghese was
seen for the last time at one of these great fêtes. Her saintly young
spirit adds a breath as of incense to the Borghese gardens, and it
is more easy to think of her presence here than among the ponderous
marbles of the Borghese Chapel in Santa Maria Maggiore where she lies
buried.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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