Fountains of Papal RomeMacVeagh, Fanny Davenport Rogers
History
Fountains of Papal Rome
MacVeagh, Fanny Davenport Rogers
Fountains -- Italy -- Rome
Standing on the brow of the hill, from which is obtained the
incomparable view of St. Peter’s at sunset, Valadier looked down
upon the Piazza del Popolo as Piranesi had engraved it in his time
(1720–1778). A somewhat shapeless area of flat ground stretching in an
indeterminate way westward from the base of the Pincian Hill, it seemed
to be only the debouchment of the three great thoroughfares running
into it from the heart of the city. The twin churches standing one
on either side of the Corso, the centre thoroughfare, were the chief
architectural features on the south side, while on the north side ran
the city wall and the Church of St. Mary of the People. In the centre
of this area stood the obelisk as it stands to-day, placed there by
Sixtus V in 1589, and with a single fountain at its foot--a huge basin
carved by Domenico Fontana out of one solid block of marble taken from
the ruins of Aurelian’s Temple of the Sun. The water supplying this
fountain was the Acqua Trevi, the same which fills the fountains of the
present day. Such was the Piazza del Popolo as Valadier’s eyes beheld
it, but at that point where the Aurelian wall is pierced by the Porta
del Popolo (the old Flaminian Gate) he saw something else: He saw the
end of the Flaminian Way--the great highroad leading directly from
the north. And at that point the actual faded away, and to Valadier
there came a vision. He saw the Piazza del Popolo as the magnificent
and adequate antechamber to Rome. He saw it approached by this great
highroad which, first skirting the shore of the Adriatic, then
traversing the breadth of Italy and the watershed of the Appenines,
descends thence to the western slopes of Mount Soracte and, crossing
the Ponte Molle, comes all the way to Rome from far-off Ariminum, or
Rimini, the Roman fortress and frontier town on the Adriatic--two
hundred and twenty miles distant--and the key to Cisalpine Gaul. Down
this road, which is but a continuation of the still greater Via Emilia,
have come all the northern friends and all the northern foes of Rome.
Other eyes than Valadier’s can see that procession. Barbarian invaders
and imperial armies have covered all the countryside like swarms of
locusts--the progress of most of them marked by burning farms and
plundered villages. In quieter times there have come pilgrim hosts and
companies of merchants; and travelling scholars, and artists “with
hearts on fire” for Rome; also ambassadors and foreign prelates, exiles
and penitents, great bridal processions like Margaret of Austria’s
in 1537, funeral pageants, bandit troops, fugitives of every type,
bare-legged friars (among them a Luther), soldiers of fortune, and
English noblemen in travelling carriages with postilions; every sort
and condition of man whom the north has sent forth to the Eternal
City. Down this Flaminian Road they came, passed through the Flaminian
Gate, and received their first impression of Rome here in the Campus
Martius--the modern Piazza del Popolo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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