Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
But there was at this time no cascade; the fountain was more than
ordinarily low; streams gushed through fissures at the foot and sides of
the rock below the arch, and indicated their source. The shelf or lip,
at the mouth of the cavern, forms a natural bridge over these streams:
we ascended to this shelf, and went down into the cavern a considerable
depth before we arrived at the water: here, a rock projecting into the
water prevented us from going into a second cavern; but we could see,
(for the opening above afforded sufficient light,) that this second
cavern was the last.
I thought it very fortunate that the fountain was so low: had it been
full, we should have seen a water-fall; but I had now seen the Helicon
of Petrarch,--had penetrated to the source of his inspiration,
------atque sacri libamina palleo fontis,
as was written by a young man of genius at Oxford, in my time, whose
name I do not remember, though I have not forgotten this striking and
beautiful expression. In sober sadness, I think it an advantage to
understand the nature and situation of the fountain better than I
should have done had I seen only a picturesque cascade. I do not
believe the immediate source of the fountain to be within the cavern,
but that its waters are supplied in subterranean courses by the
surrounding country: this is proved, I think, by their quantity being so
much affected by rain or drought. St. Winifred's well at Holywell, in
Flintshire,--a fountain as copious as that of the Sorgues,--is not at
all increased or diminished by any change of the seasons.
We loitered for two hours on the bank of the tumbling torrent, sat under
the shade of walnut trees, and eat of their fallen fruit; drank water
from the fountain, talked about Petrarch and Laura, and refused, from
incredulity, and on account of the heat of the sun, to mount a hill to a
house which, we were assured, had been inhabited by the bard. At the
village of Vaucluse, we took into our carriage some delicious grapes,
and returned to Lisle, where we dined on eels and trout, the boasted
fare of the place, prepared in three several ways. As the landlord at
Lisle is said sometimes to over-charge, I will do his reputation the
justice to observe that, for a déjeuné à la fourchette, and dinner for
five persons, with good vin du pays, he demanded twenty-five
francs,--perhaps ten sous a head too much. We got into our coach as the
sun set and the moon rose, and our three horses took us back to Avignon
in two hours.
In the very heart and centre of the romantic scenery of the Vallis
Clausa, a little to the right of the cavern out of which issues the
fountain, on the ledge over which it falls, is stuck a mean ugly pillar,
put there by somebody to commemorate something. I mention this pillar
only in the hope that good taste will command its demolition. Even if it
were fine and rare, it would be there misplaced: "fortasse cupressum
scis simulare," but what has that to do with a shipwreck?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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