Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
We returned the next morning. The portico, from its having been in the
shade the preceding evening, we had then been hardly able to
distinguish: this, with the interior and every part of this exquisitely
beautiful building, and all its fine proportions and finished ornaments,
filled us with delight and wonder.
The amphitheatre is close by the Maison Quarrée: the site of the larger
building may very fairly be indicated by that of the smaller, when the
smaller edifice is the more interesting of the two. Milton, without any
such excuse, talks of "the earth close by the moon;" though his critic
Bentley has indeed corrected the punctuation, "the earth, close by, the
moon." This is what may be called punctilious. Had I not since seen the
Coliseum, I should consider the amphitheatre of Nismes as
indestructible: luckily no builders of palaces have tried the
experiment. It is composed of enormous stones, large in all the three
dimensions, length, breadth, and thickness, which must have required
powers of mechanism, known to the Romans, but now lost, to raise them to
the height at which they now are seen. This amphitheatre is said to be
rather less in size and rather more ruined than that of Verona: it is
entire, however, all but the lower ranges of seats: the arena is
occasionally used for a spectacle somewhat resembling bullfights.
In the gardens are found remains of ancient baths, many pieces of mosaic
pavement, and the ruins of the temple of Diana, in which are shown other
objects found in digging in the neighbourhood. They were blowing up rock
on the side of the hill near the garden, to improve and extend it still
further, and to facilitate the approach to the Tour Magne, or great
tower of Roman construction. To this tower we ascended; the tower itself
we could not ascend: it is a hollow cylinder, without staircase, or
roof, or platform; the view, however, even at the bottom of the tower
is sufficiently extensive all around. Southward, it reaches to the
Mediterranean; and though I do not believe that the sea reached to
Nismes, though such is the popular notion;--yet its shores have much
receded on this coast. Aigues Mortes, where St. Louis embarked for the
crusades, is now three leagues from the sea. Frejus, Forum Julii, is no
longer a port: it is probable, then, that the Tour Magne was once a
light-house or a land-mark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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