Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic FaithBeste, Henry Digby
Religion
Four Years in France: or, Narrative of an English Family's Residence there during that Period; Preceded by some Account of the Conversion of the Author to the Catholic Faith
Beste, Henry Digby
France -- Description and travel
[93] Sir, you must all leave the carriage, unload it, and go over on
foot; your trunks must be carried over after you; and the horses will be
led gently across: the bridge is suspended in the air by cords.
CHAP. XXIII.
The town of Nice is in the form of a triangle, of which the base rests
on the sea; one of its sides is a rampart or raised road against the
Paion, the other is a road from Place Victor to the Port. One side of
Place Victor forms part of the line of the third side of this triangle;
but the Place itself is an excrescence from it: it is a large handsome
square with arcades. Within this triangle, to the south-east corner, is
a high rocky hill, fortified and commanding the port and town;
commanding also, what interested me more than its artillery, most superb
points of view. Here my landlord, the general, had a garden to which he
climbed daily; and I used to see him coming down the steep with lettuces
in his only remaining hand, and his cane suspended to the button of his
coat.
Many improvements were at this time carrying on at Nice: a new bridge
was building over the Paion, the torrent river, which, though I never
saw it fuller of water than I have at first described, bears with it the
"horned flood" on the melting of the snows and the descending of the
rain from the Alps. The galley slaves were employed in blowing up the
bottom of the rock on its east and south sides to obtain space for
continuing the line of houses from Place Victor to the port, and from
the port to the Corso. This Corso is a short, dark, damp promenade, from
which the view and the air of the sea are excluded by the terrace. The
terrace is nothing more than a flat roof of a line of shops and stables,
on which you may walk, at the height of about fifteen or twenty feet
from the ground, exposed to the heat of the sun, which, even in winter,
is too powerful to be agreeable, and blinded by the reflection of its
rays from the sea. In the evenings of winter it is too cold to walk on
this terrace: in the evenings of summer, that is, in April, it is
pleasant, but not so pleasant as would be a gravel walk on the beach,
which will, I hope, in due time replace it. By taking away the terrace,
the value of the houses on the Corso would be doubled: en attendant, you
have the choice of walking on the Corso without sea air, or on the
terrace without shade.
I have spoken at some length on the subject of this terrace, because I
know it to be much admired. I am always most happy to be of the same
opinion as the "enlightened public," when I think this public to be in
the right, and in this, as in other cases, hold myself bound to give my
reasons for differing from it.
The centre of Nice consists of very narrow streets and very lofty
houses. The square of St. Dominique however is large and handsome, and
there are some good, well-built streets in its neighbourhood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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