Boat-racing is another very favourite national amusement. In the racing
boats are many rowers, with short paddles, and the races are scenes of
wild excitement, both on the part of the competitors and spectators.
There is a good deal of betting in connection with these races. The
gambling spirit easily takes hold of the Burmans. All games of chance
have a great fascination with this excitable, volatile people, and they
fall an easy prey to the low, cunning Chinaman, who makes it his business
to introduce gambling into the village, and to profit by it.
The Burmans are also exceedingly fond of the drama. For every conceivable
event that can by any ingenuity be made a special occasion, there must
be what is called a _pwè_. I have known a _pwè_ in honour of a birth,
and I have known one given to celebrate a death—the execution of a noted
dacoit leader, who had been a great curse to the neighbourhood, and had
long defied justice—and for almost any occasion occupying an intermediate
position between the two, one of these dramatic performances would not
be out of place. There are no permanent buildings used as theatres. The
performance takes place in the open street. The temporary erection used
as the stage is constructed of the useful and indispensable bamboo. It
is set up in the street, and extends frequently halfway across it. The
rest of the thoroughfare is blocked up with the couches the spectators
bring from their homes to sit upon; and traffic is almost suspended in
that direction for the time being. All this preparation takes place
during the day. The play begins after dark, and goes on until towards
sunrise. Temporary stalls for the sale of food are set up at the edge of
the crowd, and the people by hundreds make a night of it. The dramas are
founded on tales which Gautama (Buddha) told of his five hundred and ten
previous existences, or on events in the lives of kings and heroes. The
dialogue is chiefly recitative, interspersed with solos, choruses and
dancing. Instrumental music accompanies the singing. There is always the
clown or jester on these occasions, who has his turn in the course of the
performance, and roars of laughter greet the broad jokes he furnishes.
The whole performance is free. The custom is for some person to hire the
players, and bear the expense of the entertainment, inviting his friends,
and throwing it open to all. Pickled tea is handed round among the
guests on these occasions as a kind of dessert, mixed with salt, garlic,
assafœtida and a few grains of millet seed. It has an anti-soporific
effect, and so serves to keep them awake, to listen to the drama.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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