We observed that the village of Thileng had some attempts at protection
against the Chin raids. At each of the four ends of the village, where
the two main roads, placed at right angles, lead out to the jungle, there
are log huts erected, where a police guard can be sheltered against
their arrows and spears, and the gates are shut at night. The remaining
protection consists of a broad hedge of dead thorns heaped all round the
village. At this and several villages in the vicinity sad tales were
told us of Chin raids, in which Burmans were taken captive, and some
of them detained amongst the Chins for many years. The various British
expeditions sent up to the Chin tribes, with a view of reducing them to
order, have released from time to time a great many of these unfortunate
people, and the practice will soon come to an end, if it has not already
ceased. This is one example of the ways in which English rule is a great
blessing to a country like Burma, in removing such an intolerable burden
as this constant dread of these murderous and disastrous raids, and
the subsequent miseries of the unfortunate captives. The distance from
Thileng to Pinloak, the nearest Chin village, is about sixteen miles,
and over as rugged and difficult a path as ever I travelled. About noon
we halted, and had our lunch at the bottom of a very lovely gorge, by the
side of an icy-cold stream, just the picturesque kind of place that would
become a favourite with tourists in England.
At about two o’clock we approached the village, and we halted, under
cover of the tall grass, while our Burman guide went forward to announce
our approach. Presently they called to us to come forward, and we emerged
from the tall grass upon a clearing, on the steep hillside, of several
acres. The forest trees and undergrowth had been felled and burnt,
and crops of various kinds of grain, cultivated in a rough and ready
manner, and a few vegetables, were growing. The people received us in
a friendly way, and we went forward and rested in the nearest house,
which was of bamboo, something like the houses of the Burmans. We found
the Chins in many respects different from the Burmans—far more backward
in civilisation. In colour they are about the same complexion, a light
brown, but altogether dirty and unwashed. The men wear the merest rag of
a garment, the women wear a kind of tunic covering the body, but the legs
and thighs and feet are quite bare. The peculiar custom of tattooing the
faces of the women, described in Chapter X., gives them rather a hideous
appearance, and when seen in such a dress, with the face tattooed in
that fashion, and with a bamboo pipe stuck in their mouths, smoking, the
effect is not the most lady-like imaginable. Still it is only fair to say
that the women we saw, despite all these disadvantages, did not strike
us as looking particularly unwomanly. Some of the faces, both of the men
and women, were of rather a fine cast, notwithstanding their barbarous,
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