North Uist is truly a land of desolation and dreariness. Bare, rocky
hills, which are remarkable for their sterile nakedness even in the
Long Island, form the eastern margin, and from the foot of these the
low, undulating rocky and peaty land stretches for some ten or twelve
miles to the Atlantic. The land is everywhere intersected by long,
straggling inlets of sea-water, and sprinkled with lakes and peaty
tarns innumerable. Along the flat Atlantic coast, which is overlooked
by some sparsely-clad hills, are dreary stretches of yellow sand
blown up into dunes. Near these are a few huts and a kirk and manse.
Not a tree, not even a bush higher than heather, is to be seen.
Peat, and water, and rock; rock, and water, and peat--that is North
Uist. The neighbourhood of Lochmaddy, which is the residence of a
sheriff-substitute, and rejoices besides in the possession of a jail,
is depressing in the extreme. It is made up of irregular bits of flat
land all jumbled about in a shallow sea, so that to get to a place one
mile in direct distance you may have to walk five or six miles, or even
more. I could not but agree with the natives of the more coherent parts
of the Long Island, who are wont to declare that Lochmaddy is only "the
clippings of creation"--the odds and ends and scraps left over after
the better lands were finished. North Uist, however, boasts of some
interesting antiquities--Picts' houses, and a great cairn called the
Barp, inside of which, according to tradition, rest the remains of a
wicked prince of the "good old days." Notwithstanding these, there are
probably few visitors who will not pronounce North Uist to be a dreary
island.
Benbecula is precisely like North Uist, but it lacks the bare mountains
of the latter. There is only one hill, indeed, in Benbecula; all the
rest is morass, peat, and water.
Massive mountains fringe all the eastern shores of South Uist, and
send westward numerous spurs and foot-hills that encroach upon the
"machars," or good lands, so as to reduce then to a mere narrow strip,
bordering on the Atlantic. Save the summits of Beinn Mhor (2033 feet)
and Hecla (1988 feet), which are peaked and rugged, all the hills show
the characteristic flowing outline which has already been described in
connection with the physical features of Harris. The low-grounds are,
as usual, thickly studded with lakes, and large loose boulders are
scattered about in all directions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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