France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary lettersYorke, Henry Redhead
History
France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary letters
Yorke, Henry Redhead
France -- Description and travel
The Bois de Boulogne has been extolled, but it presents no object
or _coup d’œil_ either agreeable or attractive. The roads are
miserable tracks of sand, and the _Wood_ (?) contains no lofty
trees, it consists of an extensive copse, composed of shrubs, none of
which exceed eight feet in height. There is a sheet of water laden with
boats, which plain calculating English Islanders would call a duckpond.
On our return from this excursion we drove round the Boulevards of
Paris. They are by far the most pleasant, neat and lively parts of
the capital. Indeed, the expressions I have employed do not convey an
adequate idea of their beauty and elegance. They extend around the city
12,100 yards in length, and are at least eighty feet wide, bordered by
four rows of trees, which form three alleys, the middle for the use of
carriages and horsemen and the two collateral ones for passengers on
foot.
On the Northern Boulevards the fashionable and idle resort to while
away their time in theatres and puppet shows--at Tivoli, Frascati,
public baths and eating-houses; but especially at an exhibition of
waxwork, so horrible and disgusting that its mere description would
make the hair of the most abandoned English libertine stand on end.
I feel no hesitation in saying that I would rather a child of mine
should inhabit hell itself than be a spectator of what I have seen
there.
The Southern Boulevard is more agreeable and serene; it has more
moral views, and though no meretricious forms render it the haunt
of fashionable votaries, there is an air of tranquillity about it,
which denotes the absence of guilt and the resort of innocence. This
is the part frequented by the industrious tradesman and his family.
There are two public gardens on the Northern Boulevard, which from the
decorum observed there are justly deserving of encomium, especially
when contrasted with other public places in Paris. I mean Tivoli and
Frascati.
Tivoli is celebrated for its mineral waters and baths as well as its
garden. The French compare its walks to those of our Vauxhall, but
the comparison is ridiculous, as well compare the sun to a farthing
rushlight. In the first place there are no variegated lamps. The
gardens are not lighted at all except the platform appropriated to
dancing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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