France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary lettersYorke, Henry Redhead
History
France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary letters
Yorke, Henry Redhead
France -- Description and travel
The _sheet of water_ is about sixty yards long and three yards
broad. Upon this the gay Parisians perform their nautical exploits or
_promenade sur l’eau_. The illuminations and fireworks are on such
an inferior scale that the price of admission, three livres (or half a
crown), is absolutely exorbitant. Frascati, at the corner of the rue
de la Loi, on the boulevard, is the most elegant lounge in Paris. The
garden is small but well lighted--along each walk are busts of the
French and English poets, and at the extremity of the principal one is
a pretty little hermitage, arranged with great taste. Nothing is paid
for admission, the proprietors are amply compensated by the prices
the fashionable company of Paris pay for the exquisite ices in the
form of peaches and other refreshments supplied at no very immoderate
price. There is no place of public amusement here which unites so much
elegance with decency, and I was never satisfied with the fascinations
of Frascati _below stairs_. Above the apartments are reserved for
gamblers.
[Sidenote: THE BOULEVARDS]
Chantilly, in the Champs Elysées, is a lower kind of Tivoli, a franc
is the price of admission, which includes refreshments. The inferior
orders in France conduct themselves with more propriety and are less
riotous than the Londoners who assemble at Bagnigge Wells and the
so-called tea gardens of our Metropolis.
On the other side of the water, near the residence of the British
Minister, in the Faubourg S. Germain, is a fashionable walk in the
Garden of Biron. But that which gave me most pleasure was the solitary
and unfrequented garden of the Luxembourg. To this solitude I fled
when I wished to avoid the noise of Paris. It was also a place of
conversation with my friends. Here I learnt the _true_ history of
the French Revolution from personages who had distinguished themselves
in that wonderful event, here I was instructed in the characters of
those who now govern France; this was the rendezvous of concealed
Royalists and avowed Republicans. I shall never forget the walks in the
Gardens of the Luxembourg. We were too remote from the office of Fouché
for our whispers to reach it, and we were too well guarded to become
objects of suspicion.
The Government are now repairing the Palace, and the new Senate is to
hold its sittings there. The garden will then be cleared and beautified.
There are three or four other public walks in Paris. The Gardens of the
Arsenal, the Soubise and the Temple, but they are totally deserted.
The garden of the Tuileries, attached to the residence of the First
Consul, the Garden of the Palais Royal and the Jardin des Plantes I
have not yet described. Each of these gardens has been the scene of
extraordinary events and deserve a detailed account and description.
XII
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