The worshippers are a placid, kindly, and (for the moment) a sober
folk, with quaint expressions and old-world manners. On the boat we
hear a rustic say to his neighbor, "If you are not a noble, take your
bundle off that bench and let me sit down; if you are a noble, go into
the best cabin, your proper place." The neighbor sets his bundle down,
and the newcomer drops into his seat, saying, "See, there is room for
all Christians; we are equal here, being all baptized." An English
churl might have said he had "paid his fare." On board the same boat a
man replies to the steward, who wishes to turn him out of the
dining-room, "Am I not a Christian, and why should I go out?" On
hiring a boat to cross the river, Father Bogoslovski says to the
oarsman, "Take your sheep-skin; you will get a cold." "No; thank you,"
answers the waterman, "we never take cold if God is with us." Another
boatman tells us we are doing a "good work" in visiting the shrines.
"Once," he says, "I was sick, and died; but I prayed to my angel
Lazarus to let me live again. He listened to my prayers, not for my
own sake, but for that of my brother, who had just come back from
Solovetsk. My soul came back, and we were very glad. Your angel can
always fetch back your soul, unless it has gone too far." Here stands
a group of men; a young fellow with a basket of red apples, two or
three lads, and an old peasant, evidently a stranger to these parts.
"Eat an apple with me, uncle," says the young fellow to his elder; for
a rustic, who addresses a stranger of his own age as "brother," always
speaks to elderly ones as "uncle." "Very nice apples," says the
stranger, "where were they blessed?" "In St. Sophia's, yonder; try
them." Apples are blessed in church on August 6th, the feast of the
transfiguration; the earliest day on which such garden fruit is
certain to be ripe. It is an old popular custom, maintained by the
Church, in the simple interest of the public health.
The scene is lovely. From the belfry of St. George--a shaft to compare
with the Porcelain Tower--you command a world of encircling pines,
through which flow, past your feet, the broad and idle waters of the
Volkhof; draining the ample lake, here shining on your right. Below
you spreads the deep and difficult marsh; and on the crests of a
second ridge of land springs up a forest of spires and battlements,
rich in all radiant hues; red walls, white towers, green domes, and
golden pinnacles; here the kremlin and cathedral, there the city gate
and bridge; and yonder, across the stream, the trading town, the
bazar, and Yaroslav's Tower; the long and picturesque line of Novgorod
the Great.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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