A third bell rings. Hush of silence; sound of prayer. Serving-men
appear; our platters are swept away; a second course is served. The
boys who wait on us, with rosy cheeks, smooth chins, and hanging
locks, look very much like girls. This second course, consisting of a
tureen of cabbage-soup, takes no long time to eat. A new reader mounts
the desk, and gives us a little more life of saint. A fourth bell
jangles; much more crossing takes place; the serving-men rush in; our
tables are again swept clean.
Another course is served; a soup of fresh herrings, caught in the
convent bay; the fish very good and sweet. Another reader; still more
life of saint; and then a fifth bell rings.
A fourth and last course now comes in; a dainty of barley paste,
boiled rather soft, and eaten with sour milk. Another reader; still
more life of saint; and then sixth bell. The pilgrims rise; the reader
stops, not caring to finish his story; and our meal is done.
Our meal, but not the ritual of that meal. Rising from our bench, we
fall once more into rank and file; the women, who have dined in a room
apart, crowd back into the crypt; and we join our voices in a sacred
song. Then we stand for a little while in silence, each with his head
bent down, as humbling ourselves before the screen, during which a
pope distributes to each pilgrim a second morsel of consecrated bread.
Brisk bell rings again; the monks raise a psalm of thanksgiving; a
pope pronounces the benediction; and then the diners go their way
refreshed with the bread and fish.
It is now near twelve o'clock. The next church service will not be
held until a quarter to four in the afternoon. In the interval we have
the long cloister to walk in; the holy lake to see; the shrine of St.
Philip to inspect; the tombs of good monks to visit; the priestly
robes and monastic jewels to admire; with other distractions to devour
the time. We go off, each his own way; some into the country, which is
full of tombs and shrines of the lesser saints; others to lave their
limbs in the holy lake; not a few to the cells of monks who vend
crosses, amulets, and charms. A Russian is a believer in stones, in
rings, in rosaries, in rods; for he bears about him a hundred relics
of his ancient pagan creeds. His favorite amulet is a cross, which he
can buy in brass for a kopeck; one form for a man, a second form for a
woman; the masculine form being Nikon's cross, with a true Greek cross
in relief; the feminine form being a mixture of the two. Once tied
round the neck, this amulet is never to be taken off, on peril of
sickness and sudden death. To drop it is a fault, to lose it is a sin.
A second talisman is a bone ball, big as a pea, hollow, drilled and
fitted with a screw. A drop of mercury is coaxed into the hole, and
the screw being turned, the charm is perfect, and the ball is fastened
to the cross. This talisman protects the wearer from contagion in the
public baths.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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