The old cities of Great Russia--Novgorod, Moscow, Pskoff,
Vladimir--are much richer in monastic institutions than their rivals
of a later time. For leagues above and leagues below the ancient
capital of Russia, the river Volkhoff, on the banks of which it
stands, is bright with these old mansions of the Church. Novgorod
enriched her suburbs with the splendid Convents of St. George, St.
Cyril, and of St. Anton of Rome. Moscow lies swathed in a belt and
mantle of monastic houses--Simonoff, Donskoi, Danieloff, Alexiefski,
Ivanofski, and many more; the belfries and domes of which lighten the
wonderful panorama seen from the Sparrow Hills. Pskoff has her
glorious Convent of the Catacombs, all but rivalling that of Kief.
Within the walls, these cloisters are no less splendid than the
promise from without. Their altars and chapels are always fine, the
refectories neat and roomy, the sacristies rich in crosses and
priestly robes. Many fine pictures--fine of their school--adorn the
screens and the royal gates. Nearly all possess portraits of the
Mother and Child encased in gold, and some have lamps and croziers
worth their weight in sterling coin. The greater part of what is
visible of Russian wealth appears to hang around these shrines.
These old monastic houses sprang out of the social life around them.
They were centres of learning, industry, and art. A convent was a
school, and in these schools a special excellence was sought and won.
This stamp has never been effaced; and many of the convents still
aspire to excellence in some special craft. The Convent of St. Sergie,
near Strelna, is famed for music; the New Monastery, near Kherson, for
melons; the Troitsa, near Moscow, for carving; the Catacombs, near
Kief, for service-books.
In the belfry of the old Cathedral of St. Sophia at Novgorod you are
shown a chamber which was formerly used as a treasure-room by the
citizens--in fact, as their place of safety and their tower of
strength. You enter it through a series of dark and difficult
passages, barred by no less than twelve iron doors; each door to be
unfastened by bolt and bar, secured in the catches under separate lock
and key. In this strong place the burghers kept, in times of peril,
their silver plate, their costly icons, and their ropes of pearl. A
robber would not--and a boyar dared not--force the sanctuary of God.
Each convent was, in this respect, a smaller St. Sophia; and every man
who laid up gold and jewels in such a bank could sleep in peace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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