A type of poverty and misery, the convent is built of rough logs,
colored with coarse paint. Not a trace of gold or silver is allowed,
and the only ornaments are of cypress. Gowns of the poorest serge, and
food of the simplest kind, are given to the monks. No female is
allowed to enter this holy place, excepting once a year, on the feast
of the Virgin's ascent into heaven. Three women were standing humbly
at the gate as we drove in; perhaps wondering why their sex should be
shut out of Gethsemane, since their Lord was not betrayed in the
garden by a female kiss!
Across the black lake lie the catacombs, cut off from the convent by a
gate and fence; for into these living graves it is lawful for a female
to descend. Deep down from the light of day, below the level of that
sombre lake, these catacombs extend. We light each man his taper, as
we stand above the narrow opening into the vaults. A monk, first
crossing his breast and muttering his pass-words in an unknown tongue,
goes down the winding stairs. We follow slowly, one by one in silence;
shading the light and holding to the wall. A faint smell fills our
nostrils; a dull sound greets our ears; heavily comes our breath in
the damp and fetid air. The tapers faint and flicker in the gloom.
Gaining a passage, we observe some grated windows, narrow holes, and
iron-bound doors. These openings lead into cells. The roof above is
wet with slime, the floor is foul with crawling, nameless things.
"Hush!" drones the monk, as he creeps past some grated window and some
iron-clad door, as though he were afraid that we should wake the dead.
"What is this hole in the stone?" The monk stops short and waves his
lurid light: "A cell; a good man lies here; hush! his soul is now with
God!"
"Dead?"
"Yea--dead to the world."
"How long has he been here?"
"How long? Eleven years and more."
Passing this living tomb with a shiver, we catch the boom of a bell,
and soon emerge from the narrow passage into a tiny church. A lamp is
burning before the shrine; two monks are kneeling with their temples
on the floor; a priest is singing in a low, dull tone. The fittings of
this church are all of brass; for pine and birch would rot into paste
in a single year. Beyond the chapel we come to the holy well, the
water of which is said to be good for body and soul. It is certainly
earthy to the taste.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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